Surrounded by imposing mountains further up the valley, TETEVEN once inspired writer Ivan Vazov to declare that had he not come here, "I should regard myself as a stranger to my native land & Nowhere have I found a place so enchanting as this". An endorsement a shade too fulsome for modern Teteven, but the town is certainly appealing in a laid-back way. Teteven comes to life on Saturday mornings, when the town market attracts a deluge of visitors from surrounding villages - most notably the local Pomaks, easily recognizable by their shalvari , the brightly coloured trousers worn by the women.

Despite the undoubted prettiness of the pastel-coloured houses ranged above the main square (a couple of blocks south of the bus station), there's little in the way of specific sights, other than an art gallery (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2-5.30pm) on the square itself, displaying work by local artists, and a small town museum (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 2-5pm; both US$1), also on the square, housing a colourful display of local costumes and crafts, notably the town's characteristic chergi - hand-woven carpets or runners. Rich in yellows, blacks and reds, the typical Teteven cherga features a zigzag pattern ( krivolitsa ) made up of small triangles or rhomboids. Several women still weave in Teteven, using local wool dyed with the extracts of indigenous plants, and the tourist office can arrange visits. Sadly, there's nowhere to buy chergi in town, although individual weavers are always happy to take orders if you're going to be staying in Bulgaria for some time.

The Teteven tourist office , just south of the square (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 2-6pm; tel & fax 0678/4217, vita_tur@infotel.bg ), offers local advice, sells maps, rents mountain bikes for $5 an hour, and can book accommodation in both Teteven and Ribaritsa further up the valley. They can also arrange hiking guides if you give them a couple of days' notice, and will provide information on the current status of Sâeva Dupka , a cave system 25km to the north of Teteven, which has been closed to the public for some years due to the theft of its lighting system. Best of the town's hotels is the three-star Harmonia , at ul. Vurshets 30 (tel 0678/5522; US$9-18), which has a swimming pool, tennis court and disco, or you could also try the larger Zdravets , at ul. Petrahilya 29 (tel 0678/3325; US$9-18). There's an ample supply of private rooms (US$9-18), although prices are little cheaper than the hotels - enquire at the tourist office. There are cafés aplenty around the main square, and both the Harmonia and Zdravets have good restaurants .