The journey south from Lovech takes you through wooded hills to TROYAN , a ramshackle town ranged along the banks of the River Osâm. Though no great attraction in itself, Troyan has a relaxing, semi-rural feel, and provides transport connections to a host of places sheltering in folds of the Balkan mountains - Troyan Monastery and the hiker-friendly villages of Cherni Osâm and Apriltsi are the main places to aim for southeast of town, while subalpine settlements like Shipkovo and Chiflik lurk in side valleys to the west. All offer excellent walking opportunities and make good bases for exploring the Central Balkan National Park, which lies to the south, and for which the 1:65 000 Troyan Balkan   map (available from Troyan tourist office) is indispensable.