Bazar Sábado , Plaza San Jacinto, San Ángel. Very popular open-air art and sculpture market takes place pretty much all day Saturday. On Sunday it moves to Parque Sullivan, just north of the Zona Rosa.

Central Artesanal Buenavista , Aldama 187, just east of the train station. Handicrafts from around the country in what is claimed to be Mexico's largest shop. Rather pricey compared to the Ciudadela (see below) and less characterful. Daily 9am-6pm. Metro Buenavista.

Centro Artesanal de San Juan (Mercado de Curiosidades Mexicanas), about five blocks south of the Alameda along Dolores. Modern tourist-oriented complex that's possibly the least appealing of the major artesanía markets, though there are still deals to be had (particularly in silver) provided you haggle. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-4pm. Metro San Juan de Letran.

Ciudadela , cnr of Balderas and Emilio Donde. The best place in the capital to buy regional crafts and souvenirs from every part of the country. If you forgot to pick up a hammock in the Yucatán or some Olinalá laquerwork in Guerrero, fear not: you can buy them here for not a great deal more. Bargaining has limited rewards. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun 11am-5pm. Metro Balderas.

Coyoacán markets . There are two interesting markets in Coyoacán: the daily markets three blocks up from Plaza Hidalgo are typically given over to food, while on Sunday a craft market converges on the plaza itself. There you can buy any manner of típico clothing and that essential souvenir, the Marcos doll, made in Chiapas by the Maya. Metro Viveros.

La Lagunilla , Rayon, a couple of blocks north of the Plaza Garibaldi. Comes closest to rivalling La Merced in size and variety, but is best visited on a Sunday when the tianguis expands into the surrounding streets, with more stalls selling stones, used books, crafts and bric-a-brac. Get there on buses ("La Villa") heading north on Reforma, or walk from Metro Garibaldi.

La Merced , cnr Izazaga San Pablo and Eje 1 Ote. The city's largest market, a collection of huge modern buildings, which for all their size can't contain the vast number of traders who want to set up here. Sells almost anything you could conceive of finding in a Mexican market (and much more you'd never thought of), though fruit, vegetables and other foods take up most space. Even if you're not buying you could easily spend half a day here browsing metre-diameter columns of nopal leaves as high as a man, the stacks of dried chiles and all manner of hardware from juice presses to volcanic-stone mortars known as molcajetes. The Metro takes you right into the heart of things. Daily 6am-6pm. Metro La Merced.

Mercado de Sonora , three blocks from La Merced on Av Fray Servando Teresa de Mier. This market is famous for its sale of herbal medicines, medicinal and magical plants and the various curanderos (indigenous herbalists) who go there. Metro La Merced.

Palacio de La Flores , cnr of Luis Moya and E Pugibet. A small market selling nothing but flowers - loose, in vast arrangements and wreaths, growing in pots, even paper and plastic. Similar markets can be found in San Ángel and Xochimilco. Metro Salto de Agua or Balderas.