You are unlikely to want or need a car for your whole stay in Argentina, but you'll find one pretty indispensable if you don't have the flexible itinerary necessary for hitching but nevertheless want to explore some of the more isolated areas of Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, the Northwest, and Mendoza and San Juan provinces. It makes sense to get a group together, not just to keep costs down but also to share some of the driving, which can be arduous, especially on long stretches of unsealed roads. Approximately thirty percent of roads are paved in Argentina, but some of the less important of these routes are littered with potholes. In Buenos Aires, driving is not an entirely relaxing experience: do not expect much lane discipline, and plan your route in advance as the pace of traffic doesn't allow for dithering. In other areas - such as the Chaco - unsealed roads can be extremely muddy after rain, and after prolonged rainy periods roads can be impassable, even to 4WDs. Unless you're travelling on minor roads in mountainous areas or when you're likely to encounter snow, a 4WD is not usually necessary, but having a good clearance off the road is helpful on many unsurfaced roads. Outside major cities, most accidents (and often the most serious ones) occur on unsurfaced gravel roads.

Altitude can also be a problem in the high Andes: you may need to adjust the fuel intake. A common hazard in rural areas is livestock on the road. One thing worth noting: flashing your lights when driving is a warning to other vehicles not to do something, as opposed to the British system, where it is frequently used to signal concession of right of way. You can be fined for not wearing seatbelts , although most Argentines display a cavalier disregard of the law in this respect. There are almost no places that rent motorbikes , and unless you're an experienced rider, you should avoid taking these on unsurfaced roads: biking on these requires a wearing degree of concentration, and you need to be careful of stones flicked up by passing cars.

To rent a car , you need to be over 21 (25 with some agencies) and to hold an International Driving Licence. Bring a credit card for the deposit and your passport. Before you drive off, check that you've been given insurance, tax and ownership papers. Check too for dents and paintwork damage, and get hold of a 24-hour emergency telephone number. Also, pay close attention to the small print, most notably what you're liable for in the event of an accident: excess normally doesn't cover you for the first $1500 if you flip the car, nor for the cost of a smashed windscreen or headlight - a particularly common occurrence if driving on unsurfaced roads. Another frequent type of damage is bent door hinges - be careful when opening doors that they're not slammed open by high winds. Car rental costs are far higher in Argentina than in Europe, Australasia or the United States, though prices are falling as competition heats up. The main cities offer the most economical prices, whereas Patagonia is where costs are highest. If looking just for an urban runaround, you can pick up a small car for about $40-50 a day (with the first 50km free), or a week's rental (with 1000km free) from about $330. A similar week's package in the south might cost $100 extra. Be careful to look for unlimited mileage eals if you're using it for more than just a runaround, as the per-kilometre charge can otherwise exceed your daily rental cost many times over. You can find some deals that offer this for under $100 per day for small hatchbacks such as a Fiat Uno or Daewoo Tico.

Organizing rental from your home country often proves a competitive option (local companies are listed in the main guide). Note, too, that diesel is much cheaper than petrol ($0.35 per litre, as opposed to just over $1 for super, and $0.80 for regular). Unfortunately, there are relatively few places in Argentina where you can rent a vehicle and drop it in another specified town without being clobbered with a relocation fee (often several hundred pesos). Book as early as possible if you're travelling in high season to Tierra del Fuego, El Calafate or other holiday destinations, as demand usually outstrips supply.

If you plan to do a lot of driving, consider a monthly or annual membership of the Automóvil Club Argentino ( ACA ), which has a useful emergency breakdown towing and repair service and offers discounts at a series of lodges across the country, many of which are in need of an overhaul. You can join in Buenos Aires at Santa Fe 887, near Plaza San Martín (Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; tel 011/4311 5341), at the less con veniently located head office at Av. del Libertador 1850 (Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; tel 011/4802 6061), or at any of the ACA service stations.