Strategically sited near the confluence of the rivers Neuquén and Curi Leuvú, CHOS MALAL is the oldest surviving white settlement in Neuquén. It acted as the provincial capital from its founding in 1879 - when General Uriburu stationed the Fourth Division of Roca's troops here during the Campaign of the Desert - to 1904. You'll need to pass through here if heading to the Andacollo region, but there's little to see. The main site lies in the northwest of town, overlooking the Plaza San Martín - there, on a landscaped rocky outcrop, stands the first military fort of the area, a protected historical monument that dates from 1887. It comprises the surprisingly informative little Museo Olascoaga (Tues-Fri 7.30am-1pm & 2.30-8.30pm, Sat & Sun 2.30-8.30pm; free), with a fine analysis of the Campaign of the Desert in the region, and the Torreón , a whitewashed tower and lookout point, with good views of the broad Río Curi Leuvú valley. Early November is a good time to visit: the Fiesta del Chivito (Kid Festival) is held then, during which you can sample the area's fabulous roast goat.

The bus terminal is in the southeast of town. To get to the centre from the terminal, head one block southwest along Calle Neuquén and turn right onto Sarmiento. Ten blocks along from here you get to the Plaza San Martín, where there's a tourist office , at Calle 25 de Mayo s/n (Mon-Fri 8am-3pm). The best-positioned hotel is the Hotel de Turismo , San Martín 89 (tel & fax 02948/422472; $30-45), with simple and clean rooms. Two and a half blocks southeast of the plaza is the decent Hospedaje Lemus , Lavalle 17 (tel 02948/422082, fax 421133; $20-30), which has good singles prices and free mate , and the comfortably equipped Hostería Anlu , Lavalle 60 (tel 02948/422628; $30-45), with air conditioning and free covered parking. Opposite the bus terminal is Residencial Don Daniel , General Paz 1124 (tel 02948/421707; $20-30), whose rooms can get stuffy. They also serve pizzas and cheap snacks. The municipal campsite is three blocks northeast of the main plaza, by the bridge over the Río Curi Leuvu, on the route to Andacollo. El Viejo Caicallén , General Paz 345 (tel 02948/421373; closed Sun) serves a filling parrilla for two with salad and chips ($20) and home-made pasta ($8).