The evocatively named MAR DE LAS PAMPAS , just south of Villa Gesell, is a haven of tranquil pine forests and pampas grass. The beach is not as deserted as you might expect since it is easily accessible from Gesell, but inland you can lose yourself along sandy tracks where the only sound comes from bird calls, the dunes acting as a barrier from the sounds of the beach. The village has only a couple of hotels : best is the Posada El Granero , Joaquín V. González (tel 02255/479548; elgranero@gesell.com.ar ; $80-100), a quietly luxurious place which also has a restaurant serving German food and Belgian beer.

MAR AZUL , further down the road, is currently enjoying the reputation for maintaining the spirit of Villa Gesell of the 1970s with musicians such as blues singer Celeste Carballo occasionally playing at local pub   Mr Gone on Av. Mar del Plata and Calle 41. It also has more infrastructure, including a couple of campsites , the best of which is Camping Mirage , on Av. Mar del Plata and Calle 47, two blocks from the beach (tel 02255/479502; closed April-Nov).

Both resorts could be reached on foot from Villa Gesell, either along the beach or via Avenida 3, but it's a pretty hefty walk. Alternatively, you could take the local bus which leaves on the hour from behind the bus terminal on Avenida 4 and passes through both resorts.