Heading south from Mar del Plata, the first resort you come to is MIRAMAR , 40km further down the RP11. A largely modern town, it is much favoured by families and sells itself as a safe resort so insistently that you might start wondering what exactly is so dangerous about the other seemingly innocuous coastal towns. Miramar's regular grid of numbered streets is centred around Plaza General Alvarado , six blocks northwest of the beach. The even numbered streets run parallel to the beach. The town's gently curving bay is dominated by some rather grim high-rise buildings which tower over the central beaches. A series of stone breakwaters have been constructed to prevent the erosion of this stretch of the coast, creating a chain of calm inlets. The town's most attractive feature is the Vivero Dunícola Florentino Ameghino , half a square kilometre of forested section of dunes just to the south of the central beaches, where there is a nursery and barbecue area, and bicycles can be rented. In fact, cycling is popular throughout the town, which gives the place a relaxed, gentle pace. Though Miramar's not a bad choice if you want to spend a few days on the beach with children, there's otherwise little to recommend it.

The resort has two bus terminals : Rápido del Sud arrives from Mar del Plata at Av. 23, between calles 34 and 36, four blocks northwest of central Plaza General Alvarado; Costera Criolla buses, with connections to Buenos Aires and Necochea, arrive at Calle 30 and Diagonal Fortunato de la Plaza, one block to the north of the centre. Both terminals offer a left-luggage service. Miramar's train station , with services from Mar del Plata, Balcarce and Buenos Aires, is on Avenida San Martín, six blocks to the north of the centre. There's a helpful tourist office (daily 9am-6pm; tel & fax 02291/420190; www.miramar-digital.com ) on the northern corner of Plaza General Alvarado. Accommodation is easy to find, with a wide choice of mostly one- and two-star places in the streets surrounding Plaza General Alvarado and the beachfront. For budget options near the terminals try the Familia , Av. 23 no. 1701 (tel 02291/420671; $20-30, single $20 or less); its rooms are rather gloomy and uninspiring but the single rate is probably the cheapest deal in town. Just across the road is the cheery El Farol , Av. 23, 1728 (tel 02291/420937; $30-45, single $20-30; closed April-Nov), with more appealing, well-kept rooms. Eating options are plentiful, too, with most places again around Plaza General Alvarado and the seafront. Try the Cantina Italiana on Calle 21, between calles 32 and 34, which does hearty plates of pasta, or the busy tenedor libre parrilla La Cascada on Av. 26, between calles 17 and 19. Down on the seafront, try El Muelle on the corner of the Costanera and Avenida 37, towards the southern end of the beach, for good seafood.