Villa Pehuenia is connected to the pioneer village of Moquehue by an unsurfaced road (23km) that runs around the northwestern shores of Lago Moquehue , Lago Aluminé's sibling. The two lakes are joined at La Angostura by a narrow, five-hundred-metre channel of the most captivating turquoise waters. Just west of La Angostura, a turn-off leads 4km to the Paso de Icalma (1303m), the pass closest to Temuco in Chile. A mere 30km past the border, you can access the Parque Nacional Conguillío, centred on imposing Volcán Llaima (3125m).

MOQUEHUE is a loose confederation of farmsteads set in a broad pastoral valley at the southwestern end of its lake, and overlooked on both sides by splendid ranks of rugged, forested ranges and Cerro Bella Durmiente , so named because the summit looks like the profile of a sleeping beauty. As yet, there's none of the contrived feel that comes from an excess of holiday cabañas that feature in nearby towns, and most residents have deep roots here. There are some excellent walks nearby: one short leg-stretch (35min one way) leads to an attractive waterfall in mystical mixed araucaria woodland; while longer ones include a hike up Cerro Bandera (2hr one way), with excellent views to Volcán Llaima. Jaime Ulloa is a knowledgeable and charming guide for hikes and horseriding ($50 per day). He rents rooms at La Flor del Quillahue (tel 0299/493-3347 for messages; $40 for up to four people), fifteen minutes' walk to the east of the police checkpoint that lies on the main road to Ñorquinco. Just north of the checkpoint is the excellent-value Hostería Bella Durmiente (tel 02942/496172; $30-45; reserve in advance in Jan), a wonderfully authentic, wood-built guesthouse, commanding soothing views of the scenery around. The friendly owner sells home-made bread and tarts, as well as pizzas or chicken meals ($7-10), and beautifully made craft items. She also runs a fine rural campsite close to the lake ($4.50 per person).