Wealth and tradition ooze from the streets of San Isidro , one of Buenos Aires' most beautiful suburbs. Even the mighty Avenida del Libertador, a multi-lane highway back into the city centre, givesway to the barrio's old-fashioned elegance and winds through San Isidro's luxurious residences as a cobbled street. The suburb's newer commercial centre lies around the train station on Avenida Belgrano (frequent services from Retiro, Línea Mitre), but San Isidro's most interesting section is the Casco Histórico , centred around Plaza Mitre to the north of here - turn right out of the train station and follow Avenida Belgrano, bearing left along 9 de Julio.

With the exception of the beautiful colonial Quinta Pueyrredón , named after General Pueyrredón, who once inhabited it, it's not so much the individual buildings in San Isidro's Casco Histórico that are interesting - although many of them are extremely beautiful - but rather the overall harmony of this rambling quarter. The plaza itself is sited at the edge of a slope and behind its soaring neo-Gothic cathedral, built in 1895, worth popping into for its striking French stained-glass windows, are winding cobbled streets which lead to a couple of viewpoints - the Mirador Los Paraísos and the Mirador Los 3 Ombúes . From here you can see glimpses of the silvery chocolate waters of the River Plate steadily being invaded by the ever-expanding islands of the Paraná Delta. Were it not for this most un-European of views, these tiny vantage points, with their crazily looping stairs, might remind you of cobbled corners of Paris. Turn around at the Mirador Los 3 Ombúes, however, and the beautiful pink and green facade of the nineteenth-century villa, the Quinta Los Naranjos , with its suggestion of tropical abundance, will remind you once again of where you are.

Claiming the title of the oldest house in the north of Buenos Aires, the Casa del General Pueyrredón , at Rivera Indarte 48 (Tues, Thurs, Sat & Sun 2.30-7pm; tel 011/4512-3131) stands in the remnants of one of the lots distributed by Juan de Garay in 1580, when San Isidro was the site of numerous chacras or small farms. The building itself was originally built in 1790, and, in 1815, was bought by General Pueyrredón - a hero of the reconquest of Buenos Aires in 1806 and Supreme Director of the United Provinces of the River Plate from 1816 to 1820. His son, Prilidiano Pueyrredón, a distinguished painter and architect, inherited the house and added the beautiful Doric-columned gallery that runs along the northern side of the house. Now a Monumento Histórico Nacional and housing San Isidro's Museo Histórico Municipal , the building's classic colonial lines, punctuated by green shutters and centred around a patio, are enhanced by its splendid location: there are fantastic views of the river estuary from the garden. The garden's enormous carob tree (known as the algarrobo histórico ), with its sprawling branches propped up on sticks, was the location of Pueyrredón's discussions with General San Martín on Latin American independence. The museum has a display of historical documents relating to the General's achievements but also features a series of rooms furnished in period style, containing many objects that belonged to the Pueyrredón family itself as well as some accomplished portraits by Prilidiano Pueyrredón. To get to the Quinta Pueyrredón, follow Avenida Libertador past the cathedral and turn left into Roque Sáenz Peña, some five blocks away. The Quinta is located on the right towards the end of the street.

San Isidro is a good point to jump off from the new Tren de la Costa , which brings you right to the foot of Plaza Mitre. Though surrounded by a new and very smart shopping centre, the newly revamped station has somehow managed not to detract too much from San Isidro's charm, and the streets which run alongside the railway tracks make a pleasant place to stop for a bite to eat or a drink , all within earshot of the atmospheric tinkling of the railway crossing. La Esquina del Bajo , on the corner of Del Barco Centenera, has a good seafood, pasta and parrilla menu while El Pino , on Pedro de Mendoza, on the other side of the tracks, is a small friendly bar with tables on the pavement and is easily recognizable by the Basque flag displayed outside. As well as the train, buses #60 (bajo) from Constitución, via Callao, and #168 from Boca, go to San Isidro.