Away from its rather drab main street, Avenida San Martín, SIERRA DE LA VENTANA is a pretty, quiet little village with sandy lanes, and a good range of accommodation. Though there are some low sierras to the northeast, the village itself is pretty flat, dipping only slightly as the streets peter out towards the streams which practically encircle the village. There's little of note architecturally; nondescript modern buildings predominate although the colourful little train station, with its green iron roof and turquoise shutters gives a happy, holiday feel to the place, whilst, tucked away down leafy lanes, there are some quaint old-fashioned buildings which lend a more rustic air. Divided into several barrios and dissected by both a railway line and the Río Sauce Grande, the village has a rather disjointed layout. Its centre is really Villa Tivoli , which lies to the west of the railway tracks; here you'll find most shops and restaurants. By following San Martín east over the railway tracks, you'll come first to Barrio Parque Golf , a mostly residential area of curving streets and chalet-style buildings. More appealing is quiet Villa Arcadia to the north, separated from Barrio Parque Golf by a bridge over the Río Sauce Grande, and with some attractive accommodation. There are various swimming spots throughout the village, mostly to the north of Avenida San Martín, along the banks of the Río Sauce Grande.

Buses from Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca arrive via Avenida San Martín and drop you at the small bus terminal on Avenida Roca (tel 0291/491-5091), the last turning right off the main avenue before the railway tracks. The train station , also with services from Buenos Aires and Bahía Blanca (tel 0291/491-5164), is at the intersection of Avenida Roca and San Martín. At Av. Roca 15, practically opposite the terminal, you'll find the friendly tourist office (daily 7am-1pm & 3-9pm; tel 0291/491-5303), with maps, accommodation lists and transport details for the area. There is a post office at Roca 195 (Mon-Sat 8am-noon), a Visa ATM at the Banco de la Provincia on San Martín 260, and a Laverap laundry on Güemes half a block north of San Martín. Bicycles are available to rent at Avenida Roca 142.

Good, if slightly expensive, accommodation can be found at the Hotel Atero , at San Martín and Güemes (tel & fax 0291/491-5244; $30-45), within easy striking distance of the bus terminal; all rooms have a private bathroom and television and the hotel has its own restaurant and parking. The pretty and slightly gothic-looking Hotel Alihuen (tel 0291/491-5074; $30-45, half board), is on the left at the end of Calle Tornquist, which runs northeast from Avenida San Martín towards the river: the rooms are rather basic but the hotel is set in lovely grounds and has a swimming pool. Top of the range is the comfortable but rather soulless Hotel Provincial , on Drago and Bahía Blanca, a couple of blocks south of Avenida San Martín (tel 0291/491-5024; $100-150). Facilities include a tennis court, swimming pool and a casino. Quiet Villa Arcadia, on the other side of the river, has some of the best and least expensive accommodation in the village: basic but decent Hotel Anay Ruca on E. Rayces (tel 0291/491-5191; $20-30) does good single rates ($13), whilst the enormous and attractive Pillahuincó , Av. Rayces 161 (tel 0291/491-5151) is set in beautiful grounds and also has a campsite. La Carolina , a small campsite ($3 per person) opposite the railway tracks in Villa Arcadia - follow Avenida San Martín and bear left over the bridge - also has two great little cabañas with kitchen and bathroom for only $8 a person ($15 for one person). There are many other campsites around the village, including some free ones near the municipal pool, which lies north along Diego Meyer, the last road on your left before you reach the railway tracks in Villa Tivoli.

There are few restaurants in the village, although there's one very good parrilla, the Rali-Hue on San Martín 307, which does an excellent parrillada for two people ($9). The Windmill , at San Martín and Tornquist, serves some delicious home-made cakes, including a mouthwatering lemon pie. Nightspots are pretty thin on the ground, too, though there's a club popular with locals, Casuhatí , in Villa Arcadia, just opposite the bridge.

Geotur, at Avenida San Martín 193 (tel 0291/491-5355), organizes excursions to nearby Estancia El Pantanoso ($7), where aromatic plants and herbs such as lavender and thyme are cultivated.