TOLHUIN is a conscious creation of the 1970s, designed to provide a focus for the heartland of Isla Grande. A place of unassuming houses that hangs together with little focus of its own, it has an artificial commune-like feel, but makes a useful halfway point to break your journey if you're driving between Ushuaia and Río Grande. Heading south from the village you have a choice of two routes: the new RN3 bypass, or the more scenic old, unsealed RN3 route that cuts across the eastern end - or cabecera - of Lago Fagnano , 3km to the southwest of the village, along a splendid causeway. This impressive lake, also called Lago Kami from its Selk'nam name, is flanked by ranges of hills, and straddles the Chilean border at its westernmost extremity. Most of its 105km are inaccessible to visitors, apart from dedicated anglers who can afford to rent a good launch. The old RN3 rejoins the new route just past the causeway. Travelling along the RN3 as it parallels the southern shore of the lake, you'll see several sawmills, denoted by their squat, conical brick chimneys, which are used for burning bark. Further west, 50km from Tolhuin and roughly the same distance from Ushuaia, a four-kilometre road branches off to Lago Escondido , the last of the lowland lakes, situated at the base of the mountain pass, Paso Garibaldi.

Buses stop in Tolhuin at the Panadería La Unión , a bakery and restaurant that acts as the hub of village life. The Hostal de la Cuesta , at Angela Loij 696 in Tolhuin (tel 02964/492037, fax 492049; $45-60, with breakfast), offers cosy, cabin-style lodging with views across to the mountains. For budget accommodation, head to the eastern end of Lago Fagnano to the Hain del Lago Khami (tel 02964/425951), which has two types of refugio ($5 per person) and a campsite ($3 per person). Adjacent to this lies Cabañas Khami (tel 02964/423031; $90 for up to seven people), with snug log cabins intended primarily for fishermen. A fresh wind sweeps straight off the lake in both places. At the far end of the causeway, 7km from Tolhuin and just before the old RN3 links up with its successor, is the Hostería Lago Kaikén (tel 02901/492208; $30-45), a lumpen building that commands fine views of the lake. This also has bungalows for rent ($60 for five guests) and a restaurant ($13 for a two-course meal). At Lago Escondido you can overnight in the Hostería Petrel (tel & fax 02901/433569; $80-100, breakfast included), a lodge built in the typically heavy-handed, solid style of a 1960s ACA motel, but with soothing views of the lake.