MORRETES , a small colonial town founded in 1721, lies 16km inland of Antonina at the headwater where the Rio Nhundiaquara meets the tidal waters of Paranaguá Bay. Buses constantly pass Morretes on their way between Curitiba and Antonina, and Antonina and Paranaguá, but it's an unremarkable place noted mainly for its production of excellent cachaças, for its balas de banana (the doce typical of the region) and for fandango, a local dance introduced into the area during Spanish colonial times. However, Morretes is a good base for visiting the Parque Estadual de Marumbi. You can get park information from the tourist office in the Casa Rocha Pombo, Largo José Pereira 43.

There are two hotels in Morretes, the nicer of which is the Nhundiaquara Hotel, Rua Carneiro 13 (tel 041/462-1228; $10-20), picturesquely positioned on the river in the town centre. With less character, but more expensive and with air-conditioning, is the Porto Real Palace, Rua Visconde do Rio Branco 85 (tel 041/462-1612; $20-35). As well as sampling the excellent local cachaças, you can eat extremely well in the town's restaurants , mostly specializing in seafood and barreado. For the best barreado, head for the pleasant surroundings of the Armazém Romanus, at Rua Visconde do Rio Branco 141, though the restaurant at the Nhundiaquara Hotel also serves good food.