LUXOR has been a tourist mecca ever since Nile steamers began calling in the nineteenth century to view the remains of Thebes, ancient Egypt's New Kingdom capital, and its associated sites - the concentration of relics in this area is overwhelming. The town itself boasts Luxor Temple , a graceful ornament to its waterfront and "downtown" quarter, while just to the north is Karnak Temple , a stupendous complex built over 1300 years. Across the river are the amazing tombs and mortuary temples of the Theban Necropolis , and as if this wasn't enough, Luxor also serves as a base for trips to Esna, Edfu, Dendara and Abydos temples, up and down the Nile Valley.

In a town where tourism accounts for 85 percent of the economy, it's hardly surprising that you can't move without being importuned to step inside a shop, rent a caleche, or have your shoes shined. Hassled and overcharged at every turn, some tourists react with fury and come to detest Luxor. Keep your cool and sense of humour; it's possible to find genuine warmth here. Once you get to know a few characters and begin to understand the score, Luxor seems like a funky soap opera with a cast of thousands. Cool feluccca guys and bazaar hustlers, nervous rich tourists and piastre-pinching backpackers - their dealings and misunderstandings are as intriguing as the monuments.

Most foreigners come between October and February (especially Christmas and New Year), when the climate is cooler than you'd imagine, with chilly nights and early mornings. Around the end of March the temperature shoots up 10°C, making April the nicest time of the year to visit, though the weather remains agreeable until late May or early June, after which the daytime heat is oppressive till late October, when the temperature plummets. During the summer tourism is well down, and the locals have time to sleep by day and party at night.