The gravel road from Piggs Peak passes through some fabulous scenery before eventually winding up at the sugar town of TSHANENI . The one hotel here, the Impala Arms (tel 3131244; R100-150), has plain but comfortable rooms; the bar has a pool table, and is filled with exuberant Swazi at weekends. If you need supplies, Tshaneni's Score supermarket will come in handy, and there is a Caltex garage nearby for fuel.

The Mananga border post (8am-6pm) lies 5km north of here, from where the road leads to Komatipoort. Heading south, however, the next town you'll meet is bougainvillea-festooned Mhlume . Twenty kilometres further on is a junction at Maphiveni: a left turn to the north takes you to the Lomahasha/Namaacha border post with Mozambique (7am-8pm), another 20km away, while a right turn followed almost immediately by a signposted left takes you to Mbuluzi Game Reserve and Mlawula Nature Reserve.