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ASSYUT
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Every country has at least one city which is universally loathed by all but those who live there. In Egypt, Assyut holds this honour.
- Douglas Kennedy, Beyond The Pyramids

Assyut was the first part of Middle Egypt to become a virtual no-go zone for tourists, as locally based Islamic radicals targeted foreigners as well as the security forces in their war against the state. Since a tour bus was ambushed outside town and a Nile cruiser was shot up near El-Qusiya, tourist buses have avoided this stretch of the Valley entirely; ordinary traffic is filtered through multiple checkpoints along the main roads, and the whole area crawls with troops and police spies. Giving the city a wide berth is obviously a prudent move, and no great loss either. Aside from the monasteries outside town, Assyut never had very much going for it. The introduction of a new road (albeit with no public transport, at least for now) and a weekly train service from Luxor to Kharga has somewhat alleviated the "Assyut dilemma" when wishing to commence the Great Desert Circuit from Kharga.

Previously it was necessary to backtrack through some of the oases, or otherwise risk a fleeting contact with Assyut. It is now possible to start the circuit in Bahariya or Kharga, continuing around and back to Cairo or Luxor and missing Assyut altogether. Bear in mind, however, that some buses between Kharga and Cairo go via Assyut while others don't; breezing in and out of Assyut by local transport in this manner involves very little risk of being targeted; unpremeditated assault is unlikely, as foreigners quickly acquire a police escort (unasked for).

The City
Hopefully, nothing worse than seething traffic awaits visitors to downtown ASSYUT , whose street names (mostly in Arabic or outdated) are even less help than usual, though hotel billboards facilitate orientation. Happily for those hoping to...
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