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Trek to Roopkund, India Part II
Very tiring and stiff climb. The trail was swampy and water-logged. Passed through forests of Spruce [Picea smithiana] and Rhododendron. The leaf litter of these trees was heavy forming a thick humus layer on the ground. We had sent a scout team to check the condition of the trail and accommodation at Bedni. We had a breath-taking view of Trishul after an hours trek. As we reached the end of the treeline, the Rhododendron showed stunted growth with gnarled and twisted limbs to minimise exposure. Once we crossed the treeline at 11:00, it was the mosses and lichens that took over. Crustose lichens formed green patches on the marble rocks. Some lichens secrete acids, to dissolve the upper crust of the rocks, accentuating secondary succession of grasses and herbs like - Anaphalis, Leontopodium and Gaultheria. The sporophytes of the moss was beautifully visible. The blast of chilly breeze which hit us directly, above the tree line, succeeded in blowing a couple of caps down the ridge. As we rounded the last bend a celestial sight met out eyes. The huge mountain peaks, barely a couple of kms away were fully laden with snow. In the afternoon light, the snow was radiating with a dazzling glow. It appeared as if the whole mountain range had been covered with a thin Silver foil. We managed to reach the rugged accommodation of Bedni using the last ounce of our energy. On reaching Bedni we found out to our dismay that the chances of our making it to Roopkund were as good as nil. Two groups, one from Australia and one from Delhi, returning after an unsuccessful attempt gave us the bad news that the route to Roopkund was under three feet of snow and it was still snowing out there. After a lunch of steaming Khichadi we made our way up the snow clad peak. It was the first experience with snow for most of us. Surprisingly the snow was crystalline and not at all cold. The subgroup which had started off earlier, braved the snow and chilly gusts of wind managed to reach up to BokaVasa, which is at an altitude of 4000m. With the ominous darkness of an impending snow-storm spreading fast, and the wind screaming like a possessed demon, threatening to blow us off the ridge into the snow chute below, we thought it prudent to return back to Bedni. There was a snowfall in the evening followed by a freezing night, with sub-zero conditions prevailing outside our sleeping bags. There was a saint [Raman Giri] staying in the room alongside ours. Incidentally he was a Mech. Engg. from IIT Kanpur, 72 batch. Had a nice enlightening discussion with him. Inspite of the harsh climate prevailing everyone was in high spirits and oblivious of the bleak conditions prevailing outside.
Day From To Food Night Halt
* Bedni Bugyal Roopkund Carry packed lunch Impossible
* Roopkund Bedni Bugyal Cook yourself 2 rooms
Woke up at 7:30, with great willpower dragged ourselves outside the sleeping bag. It was snowing outside. We were wearing three pairs of lower garments and five upper garments, with a monkey cap and muffler completing the attire. Chilly gusts of wind and the swirling flakes of snow ensured that we had to abort our trek before the final destination. Just twelve km away, so near yet so far. The early morning sunrise with Trishul and Nanda Ghunti in the background was also lost. We decided to abondon the attempt to go further and turned back. After 4000m oxygen become scarce. The last leg of this trek, from Bhoga Vasa onwards is a very steep climb up a rock face, but luckily steps have been cut. The problem is that if it snows, these steps get obliterated and it is suicidal to attempt to go further. Carry packed lunch, reach Roopkund by early afternoon, and try to get back by early evening. Since this path is snow-covered, snow boots, with a good grip are essential. To prevent exposure from the blasts of chilly air, a fur jacket is absloutely essential. Since in the month of October, the probability of snow at Roopkund is around 60% to attempt this trek [as we did] without these essentialities will more often than not lead to an abortion midway.
Day From To Food Night Halt
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Day6 Bedni Bugyal Wan Cooked ourselves Forest Rest House, 2 rooms,
We packed our bags reluctantly, had Maggi and headed down. The snow flakes lodged in our woollens, caused numbness as it melted due to the body heat. We stumbled and slithered down the slippery trail. The Phyllitic clay caused water logging, and there was more than ankle deep slush at places. Came across a pair of Plumbeous Redstarts [Rhyacornis fuliginosus] fishing in the river. Though all of us returned with that feeling of a mission unaccomplished, we knew that one day we would be back, and if lady nature was condescending enough to lift her mysterious veil, we would get a glimpse of its celestial beauty.
Day From To Food Night Halt
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Day7 Wan Mandoli Shop Foresh Rest House Kausani
Palatial Forest Rest House, 3 suites
The last leg of the trek to Mandoli was quite steep. On the mountain faces, due to the weathering action of running water, soil formation/deposition had taken place on the concave portions, making this macrohabitat suitable for the Pine trees which were the climax species. The convex portions of the mountain faces had just grass and no trees. The windward side of the Pine trunk served as an ideal microhabitat for the lichens, moss and epiphytic ferns. All along the trail, marble was amply available, indicating that limestone rock had undergone a high degree of metamorphosis. Came across a Brown Dipper [Cinclus pallasii] fishing in a fast flowing stream. It could remain underwater for extended periods of time and was swimming upstream effortlessly. The local children were very beautiful and shy. The standard norms of their greeting was, Namaste, mithai do and if you said, Nahin hain, back came the prompt reply, Paise do. At Mandoli Forest Rest House, our bus was waiting for us, and after a quick lunch, we decided to head towards Kausani, which is a very famous hill station. On the way right in the middle of a pristine Pine forest, the front tyre of our bus got punctured. As we disembarked, cursing our luck, we were struck by the awe-spiring view of the three peaks of Trishul [hence the name], clothed in a thick blanket of snow, piercing the heavens. To its west was the Nanda Ghunti. After a late dinner, we managed to get accommodation in the Forest Rest House, which is around two km from the town market. Kausani is famed for the breathtaking vista it affords of the whole Himalayan range. One can enjoy the whole range, [from Wast to Eest] Chaukhamba [7138m], Nanda Ghunti [6309m], Trishul [7120m], Nanda Devi[7817m], and Nanda Khat[6611m]. Our bad luck followed us here too, and we got up at 5 am only to find clouds masking the panoramic view.
Day From To Food Night Halt
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Day8 Kausani Mussoorie Roadside Dhabas Academy
After a tiring bus journey, reached the academy at midnight.
Budget
Total: Rs 650/- per head
Misc. Information
To guard against inclement weather and thus having a realistic chance of reaching Roopkund, carry snow boots and fur coats along.
We had along with us two cooks and we had hired two porters and one mule from Ghat. The porter rates are Rs 75/- per day and they can carry around 20kg/head. One has to arrange for their food though. The mule rates are Rs125/- per day and it can carry around 80kg/mule. One has to arrange for the food of the caretaker. The advantage of porters over mule is that they also help in cooking.
Keep Chlorine tablets [Aquapura] along with you, and use it diligently to guard against hill dysentery. Avil is a must incase of allergy [against woollens] and Avomin against motion sickness.
Gram [Chana] and jaggery [Gur] provide instant nourishment and should be carried in large quantities to satiate incessant hunger.
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