Birds and other wildlife around the Crozet Islands
Hugh Venables, NOC
D285 and D286 were two consecutive cruises to the ocean around the Crozet Islands (52ºE 46ºS). They consisted of a 5 day passage from South Africa (leaving Cape Town 3/11/04, stop over for supplies in Port Elizabeth 13-14/12/04 and finally finishing in Durban on 21/1/05) through waters between 16 and 27ºC, mostly 19-22C. The work area is approximately 47-56ºE, 43-49ºS and is just south of the Subantarctic Front so water temperatures are down to 3-7ºC.
Due to our work we often stopped to lower our instruments to the bottom of the ocean (time ‘on station’). This attracted birds to us, presumably as birds assumed we were a fishing boat. It was usual to have 20-30 albatrosses of 3-4 species, 30-50 Giant Petrels (with Northern predominating) and 50-150 White-chinned Petrels together with smaller numbers of other species. Birds also followed the boat while steaming between stations, in slightly smaller numbers but a greater variety of species was encountered. In the work area 14 species in a day was about normal when we were away from land (maximum 20) while on passage in warmer waters species diversity dropped off and 3 species in a day was not unusual. I worked 4-8 am and pm so had about 3 hours in the morning to watch before a second sleep after lunch.
I have organised this as a species-by-species listing as we were at sea for more days (76) than I saw species (60) and it allows some comments about the species’ identification, distribution and behaviour. Near-shore species were only seen close to port and so are covered briefly.
Birds
King Penguin
King Penguin
Only seen occasionally at sea despite the large breeding population. About 10 were seen east of the islands in very calm conditions, some sitting on surface with one flipper in the air, presumably to reduce heat loss (but did look like they were waving as they passed the main lab portholes!). There were also suggestions that this helps change their silhouette to avoid attracting predators, this being a likely reason for the South African Fur Seals displaying the same behaviour around Cape Town where Great White Sharks are numerous. Several colonies were seen on Ile de la Possession as we passed between the islands on the first leg though very few seen in the water. One young bird seen south of the islands diving occasionally but only for c.20 seconds each. Another appeared out of the water for about a second at a station before disappearing again. Seen from the ship on beaches from Baie Americaine and then when we landed on Ile de la Possession. Getting off the RIB onto a beach full of Penguins was a truly amazing experience. To get to the top of the beach we had to walk slowly, waiting for the birds to part in front of us! There were apparently some recently hatched chicks but I didn’t see any. 10% of the population in the valley leading to Baie du Marin had lost their eggs due to the tsunami, which reached the top of the beach there.
Gentoo Penguin
About 10 seen on a beach with King Penguins from Baie Americaine were identifiable through the telescope (useable on the bow when engines very low or cut and sea calm or boat held into wind, generally only binoculars used). Seen on Ile de la Possession in Baie du Marin and Crique du Sphinx where one in particular was very approachable. 2 seen at sea on 14/1.
Rockhopper Penguin
Not identified totally positively but some small penguins that porpoised away from the boat during the first leg were probably this species and some small colonies on steep ground were also presumably this species.
Gentoo Penguin
Some large crested penguins with large bills seen soon after entering the work area were almost certainly this species and a group of 3 birds were photographed south of the islands. A large penguin colony on Ile de la Possession was probably this species. Other crested penguins seen intermittently during the 2 cruises were probably mostly this species. Apparently one colony on Ile de la Possession had a lone Royal Penguin in it.
African Penguin
Plenty of birds as we left Cape Town and a few more while we were still over the shelf in waters les than 200m deep. Some were also seen as we left Port Elizabeth out as far as the edge of the continental shelf where they were part of a feeding group including Cape Gannets, Cory’s Shearwaters and British Storm Petrel.
Wandering Albatross
Wandering Albatross
First bird was seen on 4/11 with the sea surface temperature still 23°C. A truly magnificent creature and birds often flew close, riding on the updraughts coming off the ship. The proportion of birds seen that were adult increased as we entered the work area. The peachy mark on the neck side is generally obvious, except in strong sun or very bad light and is a quick way of eliminating Royal Albatross. Some birds show a very similar white pattern to some Southern Royals but show peachy mark, dark markings in tail, darker pink bill without dark line (but beware shadow on cutting edge, especially if bill slightly open), more blotchy black (not the frosted white appearance of Southern Royal). Also some birds had wing pattern very similar to Tristan (but had peachy mark). Hard to see how this form could be identified except when this plumage was predominant.
Interesting amount of social interaction between the young birds, the boat acting as a gathering point for the birds. Groups of 2-5 birds often rubbed bills, preened each other, raised wings (often turning round each other so the sun shone on the underwings of the bird with raised wings) and occasionally could be heard calling to each other though the noise of the ship was always significant. The gatherings sometimes included other species – Southern Royal, Shy and Black-browed.
Wandering Albatross
3 sightings, probably 2 birds – one in north of work area and one south of the islands. The first was a clean plumaged bird so probably and old immature or adult. The smartest great albatross with wings clean black and head and tail white. Black mark on underwing on leading edge at carpal obvious and no white frosting identify from Southern Royal. The white head and tail and paler bill identify from Wandering. The second bird immediately appeared slightly smaller (unlike the first and possibly exacerbated by posture and increased experience) and the pale bill, head held above the line of the body and white head showed it was a Royal and the carpal mark identified it as Northern. The back was not as clean white as the first so it was presumably a younger bird, the upper wings were clean black.
Southern Royal Albatross
Southern Royal Albatross
Very surprisingly, a considerable number of records as no records shown for the area in Albatrosses (Jickell, 2000). Identification generally simple by combination of wings - whitening from front and as a frosting rather than blotchy; bill – paler yellowy pink than Wandering with dark line on cutting edge; head – white and held up above line of body; tail – white. Don’t know whether this is an unusual concentration of birds or effort as they are not meant to be this common in the Indian Ocean sector according to Shirihai. Largest numbers were at M3 and between the islands (up to 5 in the day) and M5 (at least 6, enough for them to socialise independently of the Wanderers!).
Main problem was separating birds with almost totally black wings from Northern Royal. One had some black in the tail (therefore a very young bird) and a reasonably clean back (whereas a very young Northern would have a mottled back) so was clearly Southern. 2 other birds had white tails but a very slight hint of speckling on the wing, especially a small white elbow patch rather than the almost glossy black of Northern so were Southern. They had black at the carpal on the underside but not as large as the Northern Royals. A total of 52 sightings but some will have been of birds seen on previous days but probably at least 30 birds (almost all of 15 birds photographed definitely distinct).
Black-browed Albatross
The last albatross species seen, not until we were well within the work area. Then common, including down to far south with up to 40 around boat at times at stations close to the islands. Young birds best told from Grey-headed by non-black bill with contrast between tip and main part of bill. Flight similar to Grey-headed though latter generally seems to have slightly slimmer wings, more often held angled back from the carpal. Birds followed us well out of the work area on our return so either we dragged them away from their usual areas or lack of sightings early on was just by chance.
Salvin’s Albatross
Dark back merges with grey hood with no contrast, unlike on Shy. Differs from Grey-headed in having pale crown, very narrow black borders to underwing, off-yellow bill and is generally a larger, broader winged bird. Only 4 known pairs on the islands and only seen occasionally but 2 birds seen together to the west of the plateau.
Black Browed Albatross
Common in the wake from leaving the shelf from South Africa until we crossed the Subantarctic Front and entered the work area, after which there were very few sightings. Distinctive broad wings with very narrow black border and dark back fades towards pale crown so largish area of grey on upper back/neck. Thumb mark visible on close birds but I don’t understand why it is given so much weight in the books – the only thing that looks similar to Shy/Salvin’s (mostly white, thin black margin) from underneath is a young Wandering and they have the same mark. Off-yellow bill. Distinctly larger and broader winged than other non-great albatrosses (except Salvin’s). One bird seen in the work area and 2 on the way back, the reduced numbers either due to going through slightly warmer water or to birds having largely migrated away. At one point a group of young Wandering Albatrosses were displaying to each other and a Shy Albatross was being ignored so it started pulling at the wing feathers of the Wanderers, seemingly to get attention.
Grey-headed Albatross
Grey hood separated from dark back by slightly paler collar (unlike Salvin’s). Underwing messier than any other albatross. Yellow on bill on top and bottom (only top on Yellow-nosed). Immatures similar to Black-browed but bill normally noticeably black (pale-ish with dark tip on Black-browed means that contrast often noticeable) and underwings generally darker.
Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross
Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross
Fairly common on way to work area but very scarce in work area despite a reasonable breeding population on the islands. The first albatross seen soon after we sailed from Cape Town, amongst ‘known’ seabirds (such as Sabine’s Gull, Arctic Skua and Cape Gannet) and so looked noticeable large, despite being the smallest albatross. Once away from ‘known’ species it got much harder to appreciate just how large they were (until I sat next to a Wanderer on its nest). Dark bill, white head enough for ID but narrow black borders on narrow wings help (especially for Atlantic YN) and yellow only on upper side of bill.
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross
One Yellow-nosed Albatross on 7th December (close to Port Elizabeth) had a noticeably greyer head than ‘normal’ but still not very dark, presumably this species.
Sooty Albatross
Occasionally seen on passage to and from the work area, regular but in small numbers in the work area. They seem to be attracted towards the boat but rarely lingered as Wandering and Shy did. One individual had a pale upper back but darker rump and was probably a young bird of this species but it was only seen very briefly.
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross
Not seen until we reached the work area. Very smart birds, highlight being when two birds did their synchronised display flight around the bow, where I was standing. Both sooty albatrosses very distinct from Giant Petrels due to long tail, pointed wings and clean colouration with white primary flashes. Bill coloration visible on close birds – blue-ish stripe, rather than yellowish on Sooty but the grey colour extending down the back and onto the rump the main distinguishing point.
Southern Giant Petrel
Present but uncommon to the north of then islands, only 2 birds around boat at a station close to the islands when there were about 50 Northerns. Main plumage difference appears to be on the belly – Northern soon gets pale fringes and then progresses to pale whereas Southern has a rich grey/brown colour (though not as smooth as a White-chinned Petrel), even when white around bill. Crown can often be dark so still looking as ‘capped’ as Northern. Bill appears concolorous at distance, as green tip is similar to main colour of bill. One white (dalmation-type) morph south of the islands.
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross
Northern Giant Petrel
Distinguished from Southern Giant Petrel by bill tip appearing dark at distance as red tip is darker than main bill colour and belly pale or with pale fringes, head can be just as pale as Southern (but will then have a pale belly). Close up, reddish bill tip diagnostic. Problem individuals were ones with little white around the bill as some Northerns like this (presumably young birds) had relatively clean underparts and so could not be separated from Southern except by bill tip colour. One bird seen with some line trailing from its head over its back and another attacking an Antarctic Fulmar, trying to drown it.
Antarctic Fulmar
Seen relatively frequently through the first leg most places we went once we got into our work area and into water temperatures below 5° but only one seen on the second leg and that was at 48.5S and was being attacked by a Northern Giant Petrel so presumably birds winter in the area (they don’t breed on the Crozets) and then move south (the healthy ones anyway). Very distinctive – flight similar to Cape Petrel (and Northern Fulmar) but grey plumage tones unique, especially for a bird of that size.
Cape Petrel
Try getting this one wrong! Actually a much prettier bird than I had imagined it, flight fulmar-like with stiff wings. Normally present at some point each day but never numerous on the first leg, scarcer on the second legs with birds close in to the islands (where a scarce breeder) and to the south.
Great-winged Petrel
Mostly seen in Agulhas Return Current with most birds in moult indicating non-breeders. It is meant to finish breeding in December so these are presumably young birds and/or non-breeding adults. 2 birds to the north-west of the plateau in late November were the only ones seen around Crozet area. Good numbers seen on the passages back to and from Port Elizabeth with the first ones on the way out almost immediately after getting into deep water - only 1 hour after we entered the large number of birds associated with the shelf break.
White-headed Petrel
Very nice bird, white head and tail and larger size make identification from Soft-plumaged quite simple, dark eye mark fairly obvious. Flight not as erratic as Soft-plumaged. Large numbers (11, 10 and 9 on the three daytime crossings of the Subantarctic Front) seen given the small Crozet breeding population (100-200 pairs). Presumably some birds are coming from Kerguelen area where the population is tens of thousands.
Kerguelen Petrel
Hard to come by despite large breeding population. Flight either with very rapid wingbeats in light wind or gliding very high above the water in stronger winds with occasional steep dives down towards the sea before steeply climbing back – terns were the only other birds that flew as high (independently of the boat) in the open ocean. Similar size and more energetic than Soft-plumaged whereas Great-winged is larger and slower – a useful way to distinguish them (once you’ve seen Soft-plumaged). In strong light the silvery wash can be confusing – one individual looking almost pale bellied but still has a darker and less clearly marked impression than Soft-plumaged. Several birds seen alongside the boat on the night of 31/12 as we went between the islands with deck lights on (people were working on deck sampling water from close to the islands).
Kerguelen Petrel
4 birds came on deck, the first almost landing at my feet before trying to occupy the same corner as a South Georgian Diving Petrel. They give a load yelp when picked up. Unfortunately the next one hit the side of the boat quite hard and was prone for some time. It gradually recovered and started wandering about the deck and both its wings were fine so hopefully it was OK after I put it over the side. I decided to put the birds over immediately as we were close to the breeding areas and if the bird was on its way to the nest then boxing it and releasing it in the morning would have added a day to its return time to the nest. The birds are still dazzled though so have to be held over the side for a minute or so before being thrown from the ship. Soe return to the ship so you are risking injury but when near the nest then holding them would have risked their chick – not a simple call. The lights were turned off immediately the work on deck was completed.
Soft-plumaged Petrel
Dark underwings and white belly on a pterodroma only leave this and White-headed Petrel (Grey Petrel is a much larger sturdier bird), dark breast-band, head and tail eliminate latter. Often glides but also has Nightjar-like flight with wings raised high over back and with rapid changes in direction. Absent from some areas, especially where SST<4°C. 2 fully dark-morph birds seen and one with a dusky belly. The upperparts were normal and the flight is distinctly different from normal Kerguelen Petrel flight with shallower, more even arcs and slower, less frenetic wingbeats though some Soft-plumaged Petrels did tower well above the sea before falling steeply downwards in a way similar to Kerguelen Petrel.
Barau’s Petrel
5 sightings over 7th-9th December in waters 21-25°C but not on the return from Port Elizabeth. Like Soft-plumaged but with pale underwings and undertail with black borders and dark diagonal mark across wing coverts (a ‘cookilaria’ petrel). Darker above with M mark but the outer secondaries/inner primaries were almost as dark as the ‘M’ and the tail was also dark above. Dark head but white forehead. Intermediate between Soft-plumaged and Great-winged Petrels in size.
Blue Petrel
Dark cap and breast sides and white underneath and on tip of tail make it quite easy to pick from prions. Flight slightly stiffer and bill darker also help but aren’t necessary for ID. Dark breast band and rapid stiff wings strangely reminiscent of Ringed Plover! Showed an amusing desire to get itself in very strange places when they came on deck – one spent a long time trying to go behind some small pipes, getting one wing at a time past each so impossible to remove until it got bored and came out again.
Salvin’s Prion
Salvin's Prion
As for all prions, seen mostly in cold waters of work area. Less prominent breast band and dark mark under tail (contra illustration in Shirihai) make underside more different to Blue Petrel than upperparts (in my view anyway). Often flies alongside boat (birds came in to investigate the galley outlet), sometimes in the wake. Occasionally birds came very close over the bow while we were stopped at a station. Don’t know whether they were curious of us or just enjoyed playing on the air currents. 2 birds came on deck during the passage between the islands on 31/12. One was easily caught but the other got itself in a fairly oily tank and gave a surprising nip when I tried to get it out, luckily the plumage was significantly affected. Together with Diving Petrels, very large numbers flying south from the islands on the morning of 1/1. Birds of the 3 species passed the boat at a rate of about 1/sec when we were 100km south of the islands.
Unless we were in a very narrow ‘beam’ of birds then there must have been of order 1 million birds flying south so presumably the majority of the islands’ populations of these species forage to the south, certainly nothing like these numbers were seen to the north, despite the large phytoplankton bloom found there – the south was meant to be the unproductive control area! Large numbers of prions, probably largely this species, present between M6 and M2 with flocks of 3-500 milling around or sat on the water.
Prion sp.
Two birds seen with noticeably darker head and much reduced supercilium but also a sturdy grey bill so I am not sure what they were. The numbers of White-headed Petrels and Slender-billed Prions suggest a source of birds from Kerguelen, especially to the south of the islands around 49S and therefore the potential for there to be reasonable numbers of Antarctic Prion. Arguably some of the prions down there showed darker breast sides, dusky flanks behind the wing, duskier underwings and superciliums extending in front of the eye but all very subtle and dependent on the strength of the light. The heads also appeared more bulbous but this could have been because they appeared darker.
Slender-billed Prion
Present occasionally but hard to pick out – combination of pale tail sides (though note Salvin’s has pale tail sides when tail spread), dark central streak on undertail but with pale sides, head pattern with strong supercilium joining pale lores (obvious in some lights) and overall paleness, small size and more active flight necessary for identification. One bird followed the boat for a while allowing points to be gone through – harder on passing birds where much less time. Picking birds out from Salvin’s a bit like picking Roseate Tern from Common – paler and slightly smaller and then some actual features to check. Reasonable numbers (5-10) in the far south suggested a source other than the Crozets (or the population estimate there of 10-20 being wrong). The population on Kerguelen is in the millions so this seems quite possible and, if so, there could well also have been Antarctic Prions around as they have a similar population on Kerguelen.
Fairy Prion
Seen in reasonable numbers in the work area. Initially picked out by much broader dark tail band (most definite feature) but has paler head and is significantly smaller than Salvin’s – points that become much more obvious after several days than they are initially. Interesting record was of quite large numbers flying along the direction of the first SeaSoar leg, clearly trying to get somewhere. The Optical Plankton Counter (OPC) on the SeaSoar showed very low zooplankton (really particulates of any description) concentrations where the birds were seen but enhanced values very suddenly at the eastern end of the leg. Occasionally showed interest in floating kelp.
White-chinned Petrel
Present behind the boat from very soon after leaving Cape Town and again an hour after leaving Port Elizabeth. Large bulky bird, flight action possibly most recalling large Arctic Skua but never shows the determined flapping of a skua – does shear but wings not as stiff as a shearwater. Often gathers in flocks of 50-100 about 50 metres from the boat when we were stopped for taking samples. One partial albino had white on primaries and pale secondaries thus superficially resembled Antarctic Petrel. One on 15/1 had a noticeable white eye-ring but was otherwise normal.
Grey Petrel
Rarely seen, generally amongst White-chinned Petrels behind the boat outside the work area. Distinctive bird, possibly most recalling a Cory’s Shearwater on steroids though underwings are dark. One seen on 16/1 as we were leaving the work area stayed in front of the bow for a few minutes.
White-chinned Petrel
Good numbers, (20-30) as we crossed the shelf break out from Port Elizabeth though even within this area they were in discrete areas. White on underwing more obvious than normal, possibly due to soft evening light or moult state. Not seen elsewhere but a couple of Storm Petrels seen with Bottlenose Dolphins and Pilot Whales just before reaching Port Elizabeth may have been this species.
Wilson’s Storm-petrel
Often present in the wake and around the boat, shows some interest in floating kelp. Only Storm-petrel present away from African shelf break with all dark underparts. Smaller than Black-bellied but this hard to appreciate though flight generally more rapid and erratic and wings more pointed and angled back.
Grey-backed Storm-petrel
Reasonably common, especially close into the islands where often found around floating patches of kelp. Grey rump and grey wash to upperwings/body characteristic. Looks smaller than Wilson’s. Feeds with small two-footed hops – body tends to go down and up, head held higher than body. 3 birds came on deck during a passage between the islands in the evening of 31/12 – not good to see the birds fly into the boat but great to have an opportunity to handle Storm-petrels again.
Black-bellied Storm-petrel
Fairly common, hard to tell from Wilson’s from above due to similar paler brown markings on coverts but white belly/underwing coverts always obvious unless seen very briefly and tends to glide more. Dark belly stripe normally visible but extent varies between individuals. Forages with a striding pattern over the water – tends to go forward rapidly after dropping to the surface but also stops and hops two-footed when feeding in a similar way to Grey-backed.
White-bellied Storm-petrel
One sighting in north of work area of a bird on a patch of kelp on the first leg (11/11) and two in the front bordering the area on the second leg (18/12 and 24/12). Grey wash to upperwings quite different from the brown covert marks of Black-bellied but white belly needed to be confident.
South Georgian Diving-petrel
Most Diving petrels have to go down as unidentified but some close ones have shown pale fringes to the scapulars, a pale collar and pale underwings (these are more visible than the books make out) and so can, I believe, be identified as this species. When there are increased numbers of diving petrels then they can often be assigned to ‘dusky’ or ‘paler’ and so long as they are seen in similar light this may be a way of getting the proportions between the species but is unsatisfactory really. Some of both species came on deck occasionally, especially when we were close to the islands. Pale collar and scapular fringes normally evident and underside of bill could be seen to check that these features were useful.
Common Diving-petrel
Similarly to above, some close birds have dusky neck sides extending down onto the breast sides, a cleaner back and duskier underwings so can confidently be called this species. Diving-petrels generally fly with rapid wingbeats but wing pattern can often be discerned, also glide for surprisingly long periods, especially when going across the wind, and can then resemble Little Shearwater but are dumpy with shorter wings.
Cory’s Shearwater
Reasonably common from 7-9/12 as we returned through warm water to Port Elizabeth and on the way out again until 16/12. One photo of underwing showed dark primaries so, as would be expected, the birds are of Atlantic breeding origin.
Great Shearwater
Seen in good numbers for the first day out of Cape Town but only 2 on the second day as we went east and into deeper water.
Sooty Shearwater
Again common on the first day out of Cape Town but only one on the second day. One bird on 16/12 as we returned to the work area and then four singles in the work area on the second leg. Obviously different from White-chinned Petrel due to more slender body and wings, pale flashes on underwing, dark bill and flap-flap-glide shearwater flight.
Flesh-footed Shearwater
Single birds on 7th and 8th December behind the boat on return through warm water (around 20°C). Told from Sooty Shearwater by dark underwings, pale bill base and probably a less energetic flight (but not seen together). Bill colour, slim wings and shortish tail rule out Wedge-tailed Shearwater. Also seen on 15/12 on way out again from Port Elizabeth. Smaller and with different flight action to White-chinned Petrel.
Little Shearwater
Most birds seen on our passages to and from the work area (one inside area on first leg and then 3 on the morning of 14/1 on second leg). Very small with rapid wingbeats, sheared occasionally (with body level), one with distinctly bent down wings (fitting with the Common Sandpiper-like flight description) another seemed to hold its wings straighter. White on face obviously extended around eye but any pattern to upperwing not evident but birds were in heavy moult and so looked very messy on upperwing. Impression closer to a diving petrel (they do glide occasionally) than anything else present (and Manx Shearwater) though clearly a shearwater when watched for any period of time.
Cape Gannet
Common as we left Cape Town up to the shelf edge and also as we approached Port Elizabeth. Very large numbers – over 1000 – feeding at the shelf break as we left Port Elizabeth together with Cory’s Shearwaters, British Storm Petrels and African Penguins. A very pronounced line of birds could be seen as we approached the shelf break which took about 45 minutes to pass through (therefore about 8 miles wide). All black tail and secondaries separate from Northern Gannet but gular stripe generally not visible unless close birds banked to show underside.
Crozet Shag
Seen in passage between Ile de la Possession and Ile de Est on 19/11 and when close to Ile de la Possession on 22/12. Also around on 8/1 on trip ashore. Distinctive, white patches on wing small and very elongated.
Black-faced Sheathbill
Black-faced Sheathbill
Seen amongst penguin colonies on Ile de la Possession. Could be picked out with the telescope as white things flying around from the ship but then seen close up when we landed – quite inquisitive of people and very inquisitive of anything left around – at one point 2 were pulling at the straps on my bag. There mindset seems to go ‘What is it? Can I run off with it? Can I eat it?’
Subantarctic Skua
Several birds, probably young as very dark with little speckling, as we left Cape Town and then more, mostly more speckled birds (presumably adults), around Crozet Islands. One landed on the side of the boat on 22/12 and allowed approach to within 2 metres until someone came out with the kitchen scraps when it flew off. When we went close to chicks on the island an adult landed near us and called, apparently they will dive bomb if further provoked but I wasn’t allowed to.
Arctic Skua
The most common skua close to Cape Town, a much greater variety of plumages than normally seen from Britain – adult winters and immatures. Unfortunately little time to get used to them.
Long-tailed Skua
At least one as we left Cape Town. Many skuas were left unidentified as they didn’t all come close to the boat and most were in unusual immature/non-breeding plumages.
Subantarctic Skua
Seen as we left Cape Town and then again around the islands (where looked much smaller as we had got used to Giant Petrels and albatrosses by then)
Sabine’s Gull
Seen in good numbers over shelf as we left Cape Town and a few over the shelf break as we left from Port Elizabeth. Interesting to see in large numbers and in winter plumage.
Hartlaub’s Gull
Seen nearshore as we left Cape Town
Common Tern
Seen in good numbers over shelf as we left Cape Town but not subsequently. Many birds around Cape Town in first-summer plumage so looked quite different to normal with dark old secondaries.
Sandwich Tern
Seen in good numbers over shelf as we left Cape Town and again near to Port Elizabeth.
Swift Tern
Quite common as we left Cape Town and then several sightings as we continued to close the shelf and some soon after we got into deep water. Very large.
Arctic Tern
Seen occasionally in the open ocean. Some birds seen well and definitely this species but more distant birds could have been Antarctic Tern, especially one that looked slightly bulkier (but also very pale).
Antarctic Tern
Some young birds with deeply forked tails, brown wing coverts and pale belly were presumably this species as they were not Arctic or Kerguelen. Some adult birds present offshore from Ile de la Possession – underwings pale and tail more deeply forked than Kerguelen and dived once into the water (and caught a fish)
Kerguelen Tern
One in Crique du Sphinx bay showed shallow tail fork and grey underwings and belly. Not seen for long but picked at surface a couple of times. Present in passage between Ile de la Possession and Ile de Est and south of the islands. Small, grey underwings contrast between grey back and white rump distinctive as is marsh-tern like feeding action. White streak between cap and grey underparts visible in good views.
White-breasted Cormorant
Some as we approached and left from Port Elizabeth.
Cape Cormorant
Common in Cape Town docks and over shelf. Some around Port Elizabeth.
Eaton's Pintail
A pair seen in Crique du Sphinx feeding on an algae covered rock allowed approach to about 10 metres before flying to the next rock. Male clearly greyer then female and very daintily built. Apparently rare on Ile de la Possession due to rats (rats absent from other islands) so very good to get good views and photos.
Other wildlife
Humpback Whale
First individual was one initially off the port side (rolled through my binocular view while I was watching some White-chinned Petrels) showing characteristic dorsal fin – elongated hump with small falcate fin on rear end. It reappeared about 100m out on the starboard side 10 minutes later and then 20m off after another 15-20 minutes. One rolled distantly in calm seas during the first leg of the SeaSoar survey on 14/11 and then a feeding group of at least 4 were homed in on while we were searching for Pelagra (a free floating buoy) on 19/11 (by luck – we were tracking the buoy from it’s radio signal). Another group, about a mile ahead of the boat were presumably this species were seen as we approached the islands later that morning and then one was alongside the boat not long after lunch. One breached repeated in front of the bow at dawn on 25/11.
A small group on 17/12 were spotted from the bridge tail slapping but then dived before people got out on deck to look for them. When they came back they found me and told me about them and I soon found them again blowing quite distantly, presumably after they had been underwater for 10-15 minutes. There was a slight concentration of storm petrels (mostly Black-bellied) in the area they came up in which made me concentrate on it but it was not enough to suspect cetaceans too strongly if they hadn’t already been seen. Plenty of promising-looking feeding groups of birds didn’t lead to a cetacean sighting.
Sperm Whale
One logging on the port side just after we recovered Pelagra at M3 on 19/11, depth about 2400m. It blew every 20-30 seconds – clearly diagonally and at one point the blow hole was visible and clearly pointed to the left. More of a lump than a dorsal fin and the dark tail was visible briefly as the animal rolled sideways slightly. Very dark in colour.
One animal close to the boat on the 17/12 rolled a few times and could be seen well from the bridge. 3 more were further out, about 800m apart and going in the same direction could be identified by the blow and ‘fin’ in the case of the closest one. Another seen later in cruise while I was asleep
Whale Sp.
2 blows seen distantly on 3/11. A whale seen briefly on 17/1 as we passed over the South-West Indian Ridge showed a falcate dorsal fin and a more cylindrical body than a rorqual and was probably a Southern Bottlenose Whale but unfortunately the head wasn’t seen.
Long-finned Pilot Whale
50+ behind the boat for some time on 10/1. They occasionally gathered into a close group, presumably feeding, before returning to close behind the boat – often no need for binoculars, even to get photos. They were around for over an hour but towards the end they were distant behind the stern (after we started steaming away) and could only be found by looking below the large flock of birds circling above them. Variable amounts of white behind the dorsal fin and dorsal fins varied from relatively sickle-like to very broad based. Often showed all of head as they swam out of the side of a wave.
Pilot Whale sp.
About 10 animals with Bottlenose Dolphins on 9/12 in 23°C water. The area level with the southern tip of Africa is an area of overlap in the given distributions so probably not attributable to species unless the SST is significant.
Killer Whale
Pod of 4+ including one male seen distantly just south of the islands on 19/11. 2 individual animals seen near to the islands on 22/12, the first one came past quite close and had a significant group of birds following it which made it easy to follow. The fins were relatively small, presumably they were young males between maternal group and being a fully mature male. A pod of 3 seen while searching for Pelagra near to M6 (49S, 51E) included a mature male. Mostly just the fins seen but occasional views of the blow hole area and upper sides of body. Blow visible but indistinct even though they were at close range (c.200m). 2 more (1 mature male) seen in Baie du Marin before we landed on the islands – cruising very close inshore (inshore of the kelp). The penguins clearly knew they were there as there were none in the water near the beach as they went past but then plenty soon after they had gone.
Dusky Dolphin
Several small groups as we left Cape Town in calm conditions. None of them were particularly active, two-toned dorsal fin (dark leading half, greyer trailing half) the most useful feature (I had seen them breaching from just north of Cape Town earlier in the week when full markings were clear).
Bottlenose Dolphin
About 15-20 animals (associating with about 10 Pilot Whales) on 9/12. Some came in and rode in the bow wave where they could be seen underwater and heard clicking for a short time before rejoining the whales. They breached occasionally, once at least 2m clear of the water while returning to the whales.
South African Fur Seal
Common in Cape Town docks and over the shelf. Many individuals held their flippers in the air – catching the morning sun or changing their outline as protection from sharks?
Subantarctic and Antarctic Fur Seal
Three sightings of Fur Seals at sea in the work area were either Subantarctic or Antarctic. One swam away from the boat but one came close in and played around the cable over the side of the boat, occasionally jumping clear of the water. 2 just lazed in the water next to the port bow on. Several, of both species, onshore on Ile de la Possession.
Southern Elephant Seal
Some hauled out on the beach in Baie Americaine on 22/12. About 20 onshore on Ile de la Possession, quite loud and they didn’t seem to like you around but couldn’t be bothered to move out of their wallows to do anything about it.
Flying Fish
One on 4/11 when the SST was 21°C. Actually a beautiful creature with dark grey body and silvery wings and tailwings. Lots of smaller ones seen in >20°C water on the way back to and from Port Elizabeth, often in small schools. One found on deck on approach to Durban had landed on the afterdeck overnight.
Squid
One (presumably dead) one was seen about 50m out from the bridge. A Wandering Albatross soon passed and could clearly smell it as it started quartering the area before dropping down on it. Another dead one being eaten by a Wandering Albatross on 19/12.
List of species
King Penguin
Aptonodytes patagonicus
Gentoo Penguin
Pygoscelis papua
Rockhopper Penguin
Eudyptes chysocome
Macaroni Penguin
Eudyptes chrysolophus
African Penguin
Spheniscus demersus
Wandering Albatross
Diomedia [exulans]
exulans
Northern Royal Albatross
Diomedia [epomophora]
sanfordi
Southern Royal Albatross
Diomedia [epomophora]
epomophora
Black-browed Albatross
Thalassarche melanophrys
Salvin’s Albatross
Thalassarche [cauta]
salvini
Shy Albatross
Thalassarche [cauta] cauta
Grey-headed Albatross
Thalassarche chrysostoma
Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross
Thalassarche [chlororhynchos]
carteri
Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross
Thalassarche [chlororhynchos]
chlororhynchos
Sooty Albatross
Phoebetria fusca
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross
Phoebetria palpebrata
Southern Giant Petrel
Macronectes giganteus
Northern Giant Petrel
Macronectes halli
Antarctic Fulmar
Fulmarus glacialoides
Cape Petrel
Daption capense
Great-winged Petrel
Pterodroma macroptera
White-headed Petrel
Pterodroma lessonii
Kerguelen Petrel
Pterodroma (or Aphrodroma or Lugensa) brevirostris
Soft-plumaged Petrel
Pterodroma mollis
Barau’s Petrel
Pterodroma baraui
Blue Petrel
Halobaena caerulea
Salvin’s Prion
Pachyptila salvini
Prion sp.
Pachyptila sp.
Slender-billed Prion
Pachyptila belcheri
Fairy Prion
Pachyptila turtur
White-chinned Petrel
Procellaria aequinoctialis
Grey Petrel
Procellaria cinerea
British Storm Petrel
Hydrobates pelagicus
Wilson’s Storm-petrel
Oceanites oceanicus
Grey-backed Storm-petrel
Oceanites nereis
Black-bellied Storm-petrel
Fregatta tropica
White-bellied Storm-petrel
Fregatta grallaria
South Georgian Diving-petrel
Pelecanoides georgicus
Common Diving-petrel
Pelecanoides urinatrix
Cory’s Shearwater
Calonectris diomedia
Great Shearwater
Puffinus gravis
Sooty Shearwater
Puffinus griseus
Flesh-footed Shearwater
Puffinous carneipes
Little Shearwater
Puffinus assimilis
Cape Gannet
Morus capensis
Crozet Shag
Phalacrocorax [atriceps]
melanogenis
Black-faced Sheathbill
Chionis minor
Subantartic Skua
Catharacta [skua]
antarctica
Arctic Skua
Stercorarious parasiticus
Long-tailed Skua
Stercorarious longicaudus
Cape Gull
Larus [dominicanus]
vetula
Sabine’s Gull
Larus sabini
Hartlaub’s Gull
Larus hartlaubii
Common Tern
Sterna hirundo
Sandwich Tern
Sterna sandvicensis
Swift Tern
Sterna bergii
Arctic Tern
Sterna paradisaea
Antarctic Tern
Sterna vittata
Kerguelen Tern
Sterna virgata
White-breasted Cormorant
Phalocrocorax [carbo]
lucidus
Cape Cormorant
Phalocrocorax capensis
Eaton’s Pintail
Anas eatoni
Humpback Whale
Megaptera novaeangliae
Sperm Whale
Physeter macrocephalus
Whale Sp.
Southern Bottlenose Whale
Hyperoodon planifrons
Long-finned Pilot Whale
Globicephala melas
Pilot Whale sp.
Globicephala sp.
Killer Whale
Orcinus orca
Dusky Dolphin
Lagenorhynchus obscurus
Bottlenose Dolphin
Tursiops truncatus
South African Fur Seal
Arctocephalus pusillus
Subantarctic and Antarctic Fur Seal
Arctocephalus tropicalis, Arctocephalus gazella
Southern Elephant Seal
Mirounga leonina
Flying Fish
Squid
Hugh Venables, NOC
Wildlife of Crozet Islands
Trips to the Crosets
Forums