We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.
The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snowcaves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepens. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.
Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground. Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod. The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snowcaves can be reached in about 3 hours.
Program of expedition with approximate suggested ascending itinerary:
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2. Drive Bishkek - Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp.
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “ South Inylchek ” (4000m).
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6. Camp № 1 . 4200m.
Day 7. Camp № 2 . 5500m.
Day 8. Camp № 3 . 5900m.
Day 9. Descend to BC
Day 10. Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11. Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12. Camp № 1.
Day 13. Camp № 3.
Day 14. Camp № 4. 6400m.
Day 15. Ascent of the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp № 3.
Day 16. Descent to the base camp.
Day 17. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 18. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
Day 20. Day in Bishkek.
Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Kyrgyzstan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing
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