Peak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it's got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning "victory peak".
It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth". Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it. Route description The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter. Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km at the altitude above 7000m) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long. Your Itinerary Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel Day 2: Transfer Bishkek–Karakol (390 km), accommodation in hotel Day 3: Transfer Karakol–At-Jailoo BC (2750m), accommodation in the lodge Day 4: Ascent to any peak about 4000-4500m for acclimatization. Overnight in the lodge. Preparation day Day 5: Helicopter flight to the base camp at 4050m Preparation for climbing Pobeda Peak Day 6: Climb to the camp ¹1 - 4600m Day 7: Climb to the camp ¹2 - 5300m Day 8: Climb to the camp ¹3 - 5700m Day 9: Climb to the camp ¹4 - 6400m Day 10: Descent to the camp ¹1 - 4600m Day 11: Descent to the base camp Day 12: Rest day Day 13: Climb to the camp ¹1 Day 14: Climb to the camp ¹2 Day 15: Climb to the camp ¹3 Day 16: Climb to the camp ¹4 Day 17: Climb to the camp ¹5 - 6900m Day 18: Climb to the camp ¹6 - 7100m Day 19: Ascent of summit and descent to the camp ¹5 Day 20: Descent to the camp ¹3 Day 21: Descent to the camp ¹1 Day 22: Descent to the base camp Day 23: Additional day in case of bad weather Day 24: Additional day in case of bad weather Day 25: Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Issyk-Kul Lake. Overnight in hotel Day 26: Free day at the lake. Overnight in hotel Day 27: Transfer to the airport. Departure Notes: Price includes:
Also see tour packages in: Asia Kyrgyzstan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Email it to a friend: Click here to email this vacation to a friend
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