Our expeditions (both to Broad Peak and G2) are in fact the lowest cost options for alpinists heading onto 8k peaks in Pakistan, and their success has heralded a new era for climbers seeking out cost effective methods for tackling the Karakoram Giants. Building on this experience and unrivalled knowledge of the route, we will return with an exceptionally strong team that includes several Everest summiteers, for a third expedition via her west rib route. Named for her substantial breadth, Broad Peak lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakoram directly opposite K2. While there is no doubt the peak is a demanding undertaking, our experience has shown that gaining her highest upper slopes has been straightforward and attainable. On both our previous trips, members on their first 8000m ascent readily made the summit snow fields or the false summit at just over 8000m, at a rate in excess of 60%. The members that went on to the ante-summit typically had prior high altitude experience, though in both 2003 and 2004 the members that did in fact reach the true summit (at 8047m) were on their first 8k climb (guides excluded). In essence the results indicate the sound conclusion that in clement weather the prospect for reaching the magical 8k mark on Broad is very high, regardless of the climbers previous 8000m experience. In that respect the leader provides the general support and maintains the logistics and safety support for the team, however it is required that all team members be self sufficient at least on the low to intermediate slopes, and be able to undertake movement between the camps unsupervised. Those members that wish to undertake their summit bid in the company of the leaders will generally be able to do so, while more experienced climbers retain the flexibility to move independently. This methodology allows those with the capacity to move faster, to do so, while retaining an elemental level of support for slower or less experienced members of the group, and thereby giving them an equitable chance of using resources and gaining the summit.
Reaching the route: Leaving base camp the first obstacle to reaching the route is an hour-long, wild meander among soaring 20m ice fins and along glacial rivers. After a few passages the trip becomes familiar and allows for taking in the staggering views of K2 which rise up in front of us the entire way. After following a rocky and awkward spine we reach the bergschrung - the second obstacle to gaining the lower slopes of the west ridge route proper. Early in the season this crevasse is crossable by a snow bridge but becomes more exciting as the snow melts and either an exposed climb through the icefall or short rappel into the bergshrung itself is necessary. As the crevasse will be equipped with a fixed line, it has proven to be an exhilarating and fun part of the climb for all involved.
The Climb Team: The team consists of climbers from UK, USA, Ireland, South Africa, The Netherlands and Australia. Well over half of the team has several major 8000m summits to their credit, including Everest, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma, the remainder of the team are setting out on their first 8k ascent. Regardless of your previous HA experience, it is crucial that you be superbly fit, committed, and determined at the outset of the expedition and possess the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent.
Support Staff: Our expeditions would not be complete without our base camp staff preparing and serving fine meals. Nor would it be complete without the hundreds of Balti porters who carry tons of material to and away from the base of the route.
Expedition Philosophy: This expedition will comprise a group of like-minded individuals pooling their efforts and talents to surmount a significant Himalayan objective. Our climb members join us because they are looking for an organized effort but do not need the meticulous catering offered by many organizations nor the expense which comes with it. We believe in offering lower cost alternatives and sharing more responsibilities with our clients. That said you will find the services during the trek and at base camp of the highest quality. In fact we stay in the same hotels and use many of the same local companies as significantly higher priced trips. Our equipment too is of a high standard, and we use North Face or Salewa tents, and have at least 1 Iridium satellite phone at BC at all times. The expedition managers (either Stu Remensynder or Anibel Salje or Mike Hale) have extensive climbing CVs, have been to 8000m previously, and are both qualified medical technicians. Like all of our climbs this expedition is a flexible climb. There is no regimented strategy in place, and members can move at their own pace without the stress of having to keep up with a climbing line. It is required however, that team members be able to maintain a degree of self sufficiency, and understand that the climbing leader is there for the general leadership of the group, and not to devote all his resources to ensuring any single member reaches the top. The expedition manager will make all decisions in consultation with the group, however he retains the right to lead with safety as his foremost consideration, and this will be reinforced if any member appears overtaxed. The 8000m climb was a great experience. K2 is an awesome looking mountain, and to be camped around it for a few weeks was amazing. Your staff is great guys, always ready to help. To get up into the Karakoram for the first time was an inspiring experience Dave, I think I'll be going back some time.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Pakistan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing
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