From there, the climb takes about three to four days, depending on weather conditions. Although the climb is not technically difficult, it requires a strong physical condition and good mountaineering skills. Climbing Mera peak requires mountaineering skills and a special permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association.
The bulk of Mera, officially the highest of Nepal’s permitted trekking peaks, rise to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. Mera (Peak) is a chance to venture into a little visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 21,000 feet. Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass- growing monsoon. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include Chamlang and Baruntse.
Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the world. We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the small town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us healthy at our ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal’s most pristine Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests, past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera Glacier where we’ll establish base camp. We’ll set up two more high camps, the first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800 m. From here it is a steady and steep climb to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to the west.
Mera peak is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides the charming of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and yet un spoilt region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides. Mera Peak trek and climbing servers a gate way for high altitude trekking to go over Amphulaptcha Pass or Mingbo La and also for climbing on Baruntse, Chamlang and other Himalayas climbing.
There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The normal route for climbing Mera Peak is North Face Glacier from the Mera La. The base camp can be set up at 5,300m on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. Normally, high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the spectacular viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchenjungha, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north. There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m) , the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is slightly technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.
Day 1: Kathmandu - Lukla by flight. Camp at Lukla. Includes: (A).
Day 2: Commence the trek to Mera peak. We ascend slowly for 3 hours and steep up for one hour and arrive Thukdingma for the camping. The views of Numbur (6957m), Karyolung (6511m), Kwangde (6011m) are magnificent from here. Includes: (A), (B).
Day 3: Today is an easy walk all day passing through the jungle and grassland for Yaks during the summer. We arrive Tsetre for camping. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 4: We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually, no human settlement on the trail. We arrive Thaksingdingma (3,500m) for Camping. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 5: We walk all day through the side of the mountain and the trail is narrow. The patches of the jungle on the trail become thinner as we ascend near the snow line. We camp at Thagnak. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 6: Rest day in Thagnak. It is worth spending an extra day at Thagnak, which is in a superb setting surrounded by stunning peaks including Peak 43 (6,769m). There is a huge moraine in the north of Thagnak where a beautiful glacial lake, Sabai Tsho is dammed. It is worth exploring around for acclimatization purpose. Thagnak is also a base for climbing east and north-east side of Kushum Kanguru. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 7: We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Khraka which offers the spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout to the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to Khare (5,099m). Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 8: We ascend for three hours and arrive at Mera La (5,415m). Normally, the pass will be covered with snow from Nov.- April. Again the views from the pass is spectacular. We descend about 100m towards the Hongu side and set up the base camp (5,300m) in the moraine below the ice. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 9: Rest day for acclimatization. You can explore around or climb up for a few hours and come back to the Base Camp for the night. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 10: We walk up for 4 hours and set up the high camp and make preparation for the next day to get to the summit. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Day 11: Today we go to the summit and the views of Pumori (7161m), Lhotse (8516m) Makalu (8463m), Lobuche (6145m), Cho Oyu (8201m) are spectacular from the summit. We retrace to Base Camp. Mera Peak Base Camp - Lukla. Includes: (A), (B), (L), (D).
Days 12-17: We follow the same route and come back to Lukla. Includes: (A), (B).
Day 18: Lukla - Kathmandu by flight. Includes: (B).
Note: Abbreviation: A = Accommodation, B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Nepal Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Hiking & Trekking
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