Lenin Peak is the highest mountain in the Trans-Alay Range of Central Asia and the second highest peak in the Pamir Mountains. It stands on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The scenery along the route is wonderful and the panoramic views from the summit are truly spectacular. The tour starts and finishes in the Kirghistan's capital Bishkek and there is an opportunity to explore some of the country’s cultural and historical treasures.
Day 1: Fly from the UK to Bishtek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Transfer for internal flight to Osh. Overnight in hotel in Osh.
Day 2: Transfer by road to Base camp at Achik-Tash.Journey time is about 8 hours (280kms). Camp overnight at base camp (3600m).
Day 3: Acclimatization day 1 – short trek up to an altitude of about 4000m. Return to Base Camp.
Day 4: Acclimatization day 2 - ascent of Petrovskogo peak (4,830m).
Day 5: Rest day.
Day 6: Climb to camp 1 at 4200m (6-8 hours climbing time).
Day 7: Climb to camp 2 at 5300m (6-8 hours climbing time).
Day 8: Climb to the camp 3 at 6100m (4-6 hours climbing time).
Day 9: Descend back to camp 1.
Day 10: Descend back to base camp.
Day 11: Rest day.
Day 12: Climb to camp 1.
Day 13: Climb to camp 2.
Day 14: Climb to camp 3.
Day 15: Summit attempt (10-12 hour climbing time from camp 3 to summit and back to camp 3).
Day 16: Descend to camp 1.
Day 17: Descend to base camp.
Day 18: Transfer to Osh. Overnight in Osh.
Day 20: Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in Bishkek.
Day 21: Return flight to UK.
Note: This is our recommended itinerary, however local circumstances, weather and safety considerations may oblige the group leader to make changes, even at the very last minute.
Route Description: Base Camp is situated on a large meadow (aka "The Onion Field") at about 3600 m. There are washing/toilet facilities and each team has a well-established camp with electricity. The route to camp 1 takes you across the meadow to follow a steep, narrow path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m). The trail switch-backs up the glacial moraine before the ascent via the left ridge of Lenin Glacier to the head of the glacier where camp 1 is established at 4200 m. Camp 1 is also a permanent campsite with toilet facilities, electricity and running water.
From camp 1 the walk starts off easy as you cross the flat glacier and ascend the long snow slope which runs directly to the summit. The terrain is heavily glaciated and you’ll be roped up for sections of the trail. There are also some fixed ropes and ladders across some of the more crevassed sections. The north face of the mountain ahead of you is avalanche prone after recent snow and care needs to be taken. You traverse the rim of a large snow basin beneath Razdelny Peak and ascend a steep 400 m snow slope to arrive at a flat sport where camp 2 is established at 5300 m.
From camp 2 the route ascends steeply on to the ridge. The gradient is up to 45 degrees at its steepest points. The route is not glaciated and whilst crampons will be worn, ropes and harnesses are not usually necessary. You follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where camp 3 can be established in the small saddle under Mt Razdelnaya.
From camp 3 you will ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge is mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m. Above this plateau is a short steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. Above this there is a rocky section which leads to the summit plateau at 7134 m. The summit itself is marked with a memorial plaque. The views are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. You will return via the same route to camp 3. Summit day is a long day of up to 15 hours.
Your guides: The group will be accompanied from the UK. In Kyrgyzstan our local partner is Nikolay Shustrov. We have run a number of trips to Mt Elbrus with Nikolai and they are a very professional team. The local guides will be supported by a team of porters and cooks who are responsible for organizing the camps, carrying the group equipment and cooking all meals. The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.
Accommodation and Meals: 3 nights will be spent in hotels in Osh and Bishtek at the start and finish of the trip. At base camp and camp 1 there will be a mess tent and a cook to prepare fresh food. Here group members will sleep in comfortable two-person tents. On the ascent good quality, high altitude 2 or 3 man tents will be used. Throughout the expedition (including camps 2 and 3) food will be prepared by cooks. Food will be a combination of nutritious, low-fat and high-fiber ingredients. All participants are strongly recommended to carry a selection of their favorite trail snacks.
Skills: Lenin Peak is one of the easiest 7000 m peaks in the world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb, similar in grade to Mont Blanc or Elbrus. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over 2300 m higher than Mont Blanc) so it is by no means an "easy summit". The route follows a well-explored trail that includes some steep and exposed stretches on ridges. Between base camp and camp 2 is heavily glaciated and there is a small risk of avalanches.
Winter mountaineering experience and use of ice ax and crampons is essential. Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. High altitude and adverse weather are the main concerns.
Stamina: Climbing to 7000 m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground.
Your Safety: This climbing expedition to Kyrgyzstan is not a packaged holiday where everything can be planned in advance. We cannot assure that everything will run like clockwork. Climbing at altitude has its dangers. These risks can never be removed altogether but they can be minimized.
Our aim is to provide you with a thrilling expedition that is directed with maximum attention to your safety and the safety of others. The risks are reduced by the expert judgment of our leaders. They will make decisions with safety as the first priority, even if this is at the expense of reaching your ultimate goals.
There is a permanent rescue team available near to our base camp and we will have constant radio contact with the rescue center and helicopter base. The ability to be flexible and the ability to maintain a cheerful attitude are two of the most important things that you can pack in your bags for your trip to climb Lenin Peak.
Altitude: High altitude symptoms vary from one person to another and are unpredictable. What is certain, however, is that they can almost always be overcome by steady acclimatization. Right from the start we will be ascending very gradually to ensure everyone is well prepared for the thinner air.
Equipment: Our recommended equipment list will be sent to you at the time of booking.
Useful Information about Kyrgyzstan: Kyrgyzstan is a landlocked country in Central Asia, bordering Kazakhstan, China, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. The mountainous region of the Tian Shan covers over 80% of the country and Kyrgyzstan is occasionally referred to as the "Switzerland of Central Asia". Kyrgyzstan was part of the Soviet Union until independence was achieved in 1991.
Expenses While in Kyrgyzstan: Nearly all your expenses in Kyrgyzstan are covered in the cost of the trip. There are, however, some costs e.g. alcohol or personal expenses which are excluded.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Kyrgyzstan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Hiking & Trekking