Day 1: We have enough rest days in Huaraz. Ecuadorian Alpine Institute organize all and preparation for Alpamayo expedition.
Day 2: Depart early in the morning from our hotel, we drive by private bus to the small town of Cashapampa where we meet our local porter with Burros that will carry the most of our gear and begin the Santa Cruz trek, while we hike up bay day packs. The trek through the first part of the valley can be very hot so it is important to walk unhurriedly and carry plenty of water. We spend the night at Llamacorral, next to the River our camp fantastic scenery.
Day 3: We leave from our Llamacorral camp. Start the trek to Alpamayo base camp (about 14,200 feet. 4329m) This is a spectacular camp with incredible views of the surrounding peaks around Santa Cruz, Artesonraju on the way up. We can expect a reach Alpamayo base camp, arrive by mid afternoon.
Day 4: Rest day at the Alpamayo base camp; This is a day for prepare ourselves for climbing, we check our gear and decide what we are taking up for climb. All this we make in the morning. The afternoon spend resting and eating.
Day 5: From our base camp, today we move to Moraine camp, we take a moraine ridge, cross rock slabs across the edge of the glacier, 3 or 4 hours will take us to arrive to Moraine camp, reach of tent platforms, the afternoon rest.
Day 6: This day we move up to the Col high camp located at 17,000 feet.(5183mt) The route above the moraine camp continues over ice, before 400 m snow couloirs leads to the Col between Alpamayo and near by Quitaraju peaks, after this section and technical part of the way up we gain the Col, there is a short descent to reach a high camp this is a fantastic point at the foot of the south east face from Alpamayo grandiose Mountain. After final arrangements, early to bed, we prepare for our early wake-up and a long, difficult summit day.
Day 7: Climbing day or rest at the high Col Camp. The group should be well acclimatized by now. One part of the group climbing to day Alpamayo the others well be rest in the Col camp.
Day 8: This day are reserved for our summit attempts in case we have a bad weather. In climbing day, we start early, the route from the col crosses the snow bowl and climbing up with our goal of arriving at the summit. For crossing bergschrund below the South West face we need two hours approximately, we are on the main face and the Ferrari rout, this is what you came for! This face is quite a technical route. Just as the sun rises and to take advantage of firmer snow and ice conditions. With more than 1,000 feet of technical ground to cover we move as fast and efficiently as possible once we begin the belayed climbing up the Ferrari route. There are 8 pitches of steep ice, mostly 50º we use two tools ice and snow climbing, we arrive at the airy summit the final couple of pitches steeper up to reach the summit. It should take us 7 or 8 hours approximately, we have take a the incredible views from this part of the World. Celebration summits, couple of pictures and begin our descent down the route. Return to high camp.
Day 9: We descend to base camp: If we have successful in the first summit day we may have descending the day before, Otherwise if we ascents are made at earliest opportunities we will descend to day to the base camp.
Day 10: From the base camp we hike out to Cashapampa where we catch our ride back. In the afternoon we drive to Huaraz.
Day 11: Time to relax after climbing, eat, drink and hopefully celebration dinner, salsa dancing before heading back to home.
Day 12: Return to Lima. Catch your flights late in the night to your home.
Note: As conditions on Alpamayo are variable from year to year, there is a chance that our scheduled route may be in an unfavorable state. Your trip Guide leader will evaluate conditions and if unsatisfactory with your route, weather etc. We will climb one of the other outstanding peaks in the Cordillera Blanca.
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South America Ecuador Peru Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Camping
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