There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking map is highly misleading.
Many climbers are confused as to the exact location of these two peaks as the range has 4 or more summits in the immediate vicinity which are unmarked in maps of this area. As a result many climbing parties have mistakenly climbed one of these peaks thinking it to be Chulu East or West. It usually understood that with the permit to climb the East or West peak an attempt can be made to the nearby peak as well.
A climb of one or both of these peaks combined with Nepal's most famous around the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings. Allow about 21-26 days to complete this climb and trek.
Route of Chulu East: The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moranis at 5154m. Most climbers make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although some have, in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below the peak. Another subsidiary peak called Chulu Far East (6059m) may also be attempted from this approach.
-Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, day at leisure. Includes: (D)
-Day 2: Day at leisure/Hotel. Includes: (B)
-Day 3: Drive to Beshi Sahar (823m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 4: Trek to Bahundanda (1311m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 5: Trek to Chyamje (1410m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 6: Trek to Bagarchhap (2164m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 7: Trek to Chame (2713m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 8: Trek to Pisang (3185m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 9: Trek to Hongde (3280m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 10: Trek to Yak Kharka (3790m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 11: Trek to Base Camp at (5154m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 12: For the acclimatization explore around the Base Camp. Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 13: Climb to high camp (5500m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 14: Climb to summit (6300m) and return to Base Camp. Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 15: Trek to Latder (4250m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 16: Trek to Phedi (4480m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 17: Trek to Muktinath (3802m) via Throng la pass (5416m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 18: Trek to Jomsom (2713m). Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 19: Spare day incase of flight cancellation. Includes: (B, L, D)
-Day 20: Fly to Pokhara and continue to KTM (1350m)/Hotel. Includes: (B)
-Day 21: Day at leisure/farewell dinner/Hotel. Includes: (B, D)
-Day 22: Drive to Airport for return flight. Includes: (B)
Season: March till May, October till November. Tour grade: Trekking Grade: Strenuous (C). Climbing grade: Moderate.
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