Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7879 m), Lhotse (8501 m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8410 m) and Lhotse Shar (8383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475 m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak. South East Flank and South-West Ridge: The Island Peak base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5150 m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establishing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent.
From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5280 m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult. North Ridge Route: First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas.
North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5700 m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificent snow area, due south, this steepness for the final summit pyramid. This is a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other conditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, day at leisure. Includes: (D).
Day 2: Day at leisure/Hotel. Includes: (B).
Day 3: Flight to Lukla (2840 m)/trek to Phakding (2640 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 5: Acclimatization day. Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 6: Trek to Tengbuche (3860 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 7: Trek to Dingbuche (4410 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 8: Trek to Lobuche (4910 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 9: Trek to Kala Pattar (5545m)/back to Gorakshep (5140m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 10: Trek to EBC (5310 m)/back to Gorakshep. Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 11: Trek to Dingboche (3985 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 12: Trek to Chukkung (4730 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 13: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5150 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 14: Climb to High camp (5481 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 15: Climb to summit (6189 m) and return to Base Camp. Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 16: Trek to Dingbuche (4410 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 17: Trek to Tengbuche (3860 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 18: Trek to Namche (3440 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 19: Trek to Lukla (2840 m). Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 20: Spare day in case of bad weather. Includes: (B, L, D).
Day 21: Fly to Kathmandu (1350 m)/Hotel. Includes: (B).
Day 22: Day at leisure/farewell dinner/Hotel. Includes: (B, D).
Day 23: Drive to airport for return flight. Includes: (B).
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Nepal Outdoor: Land Rambler Hiking & Trekking Mountain/Rock Climbing
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