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Missionaries, Minorities & the Mekong
offered by supplier M08534 (view this supplier profile)
Key Information:
Tour Duration: 13
day(s)
Group Size: 2
- 7
people
Destination(s):
China
Tibet
Specialty Categories:
Cultural Journey
Season: February - November
Airfare Included: No
Tour Customizable: Yes
Minimum Per Person Price: 1945 US Dollar (USD)
Maximum Per Person Price: 2030 US Dollar (USD)
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A nicely paced road trip over generally decent roads that nevertheless pass through some rarely trodden areas. In many ways the ride up through the Mekong is a trip through time as the changing human geography provides a key to the changing patterns of influence and interplay of the various factions and minorities (in this case the Naxi, Yi, Lisu & Tibetans) over the last 800 years or so. Similarly, as the trail moves from the fertile plains of Lijiang, across the Yangtze watershed over to the Mekong and following it northwards, eventually rising to meet the snow peaks of the Kawa Karpo range - the trail passes through a highly representative cross-section of the many landscapes that make NW Yunnan so notable.
Your Itinerary
Day 1: Kunming
Arguably the most open and relaxed of China's provincial capitals, befitting to a province that straddles so many cultures and civilisations. Dubbed the 'City of Spring' due to its yearlong great climate, it's long been a summer getaway destination for the savvier of China's political and economic elite. Nowadays, it only has traces of the old city and its semi-colonial French influences, but the reconstruction has gone well and it retains much of the atmosphere (if not the actual buildings!) of earlier times.
After pick-up from the airport and consolidating the group we’ll hold an initial orientation. For those arriving early, whereby Kunming isn’t chock-a-block with traditional ‘sites’, it’s a relaxed and pleasant city to wander around, visit the Bird & Flower market, sip tea by the lake, imbibe coffee at the pre-revolution era coffee house, etc. Accommodation is by Green Lake in the northwest of the city, a good place to use as a base for a rewarding stroll or two and a chance to kick the jet lag. Dinner will provide a chance for everybody to meet.
Hotel
Day 2: Lijiang
An early flight to Lijiang which at 2400 m provides an initial chance for altitude acclimatization. Lijiang is in many ways the capital of the Naxi minority, and despite being afflicted by the somewhat crass “authenticity” drive so popular amongst Yunnan local governments, remains one of the not-to-be-missed gems of SW China. An intriguing and beautiful old town - ancient canal system, thriving central market, traditional architecture, with abundant cafes in the centre.
Flight / Hotel
(B)
Day 3: Yuhu
For early birds - if you’re interested in ornithology, there are at least 2 sites around town known for the large number of endemic (and oft endangered) species they attract. Early morning hours also offer a chance to see Lijiang at its most peaceful, before the tour groups kick into gear. After breakfast, it’s a short drive to reach the village of Yuhu, a small village nestled on the lower slopes of Jade Dragon Mountain. Amongst other things this was the home of Joseph Rock - who was in parts an explorer, a plant collector, a scholar of Naxi language, and a bit of a master of fakery - who roamed SW China in the 20s, 30s and 40s. Guided afternoon walk up the slopes of the hovering mountain is an option, after which it’s a home-cooked meal, and an evening of star gazing from the courtyard, before turning into clean, cosy rooms at this family-run guesthouse.
Guesthouse
(B)
Day 4: Liming
A morning drive over the hills with some great views of both Jade Dragon (Yunnan’s 2nd highest - 5596m) and Haba (Yunnan’s 3rd highest - 5396m) snow mountains before heading down to the banks of the Yangtze for the small village of Liming, a remarkable little town, populated by the Lisu minority, with a history of missionary activity. It’s set in a deep valley surrounded by red sandstone massif scenery that gives a canyon-like atmosphere to the area. Getting there by early afternoon, there’s a great opportunity to head out for an afternoon hike to the top of one of these massifs to take in the vista.
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 5: Xiao Weixi
Crossing mostly Lisu and Naxi country the trail hops watersheds to join up with the lush valley of the Mekong and begin the trail north. Upon meeting the Mekong the landscape starts to divide between the pattern so common here, the Naxi villages occupying the fertile area along the valley bottom while Lisu, a few Yi and at this point, even a few Tibetans farming and living on the arid slopes and isolated villages (out of view) on the hilltops. The first night’s stop is in the charming, predominantly Naxi village of Xiao Weixi, also the site of one the churches put in place by the French missionaries of the late 19c, and on the grounds of which we’ll be staying. Evening strolls and a good meal mark the end of the day.
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 6: Cizhong
Moving north through a series of small market towns towards Cizhong, amongst other places worth a stop is the monastery of Shouguo Si, one of 13 Kagyüpa monasteries in the region, dating back to the 17c and 18c. To get there we cut sharply up the side of the valley to catch a look at one of those villages set so high up and out of sight of the valley bottom. Shouguo Si has gone through hard times with the coming of the missionaries, the expansion of the Gelukpa school in northwest Yunnan, and last but not least, the Cultural Revolution. Still it hangs on in there, full of history if not treasures! Late afternoon we get to Cizhong, site of a large Catholic church and vineyards initially planted by the French. Situated on the banks of the Mekong, the village (Naxi) these days is prosperous, though isolated. There should be an hour or two of daylight left to explore. Accommodation is in a villager's house, basic but very relaxed!
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 7: Red Slope
Again starting early, the trail starts to climb up from the Mekong as it parallels the Meilixueshan (Kawa Karpo) range that peaks with Kagebo (6746m), views stunning as the road climbs higher and higher. A couple of hours before Deqin, we cut right onto an even higher road, and head for what can only be described as a ‘hidden’ valley, an extremely beautiful and secluded scene opening up onto the mountains across the Mekong, with a bustling Tibetan village and a recently restored monastery at its head. It took us a long time to track down this valley and the monastery, so we’re going to sit on the name for awhile in the (probably forlorn!) hope of keeping it pristine just a little while longer. For sure one of the highlights of this trail. The afternoon we’ll spend knocking around the monastery and village, where we’ll also spend the night.
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 8: Deqin
A 2- to 3-hour drive over high passes, again with the snow peaks of the Kawa Karpo range to our left, before dropping down to Deqin (3480m) - the last stop before the passes on the old trading route into central Tibet. But (except for some fantastic hot pot) not a huge amount going on here. The group has a choice to make - if there’s time and the hot showers (and the hot pot) are not lure enough, then we can head northwest to spend the night in Xidang, a small Tibetan village at the very foot of Kagebo Peak. This would add a couple of hours to the next day’s drive. Generally the default option of staying in Deqin is probably the one we’d recommend - but if you’ve a real surfeit of extra energy, well…
4WD / Hotel
(B)
Day 9: Benzilan
Out of Deqin the trail climbs back up to heights of 4500m+ as it heads southeast. Given the right weather we’ll stop at one of the passes for a picnic and to say goodbye to the peaks before dropping slightly to have a look at a couple of monasteries - Dongzhulin and Shusong (a nunnery - a much rarer animal indeed). Both sub-monasteries of the huge Songzanlin in Zhongdian, both remote but active teaching gompas. After a couple of hours (or more) of pottering around at these two sites, we drop down to the Tibetan village Benzilan on the banks of the Yangtze, facing Sichuan province on the opposite side. For centuries another important stop on the old trading route into Tibet - indeed in central Tibet, imported Chinese tea was often known as ‘Benzilan tea’! Here we’ll spend the night.
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 10: Zhongdian
An early start and a 2-hour drive to Zhongdian (now optimistically renamed Shangri-La), where we’ll be based at a hotel at the bottom of the magnificent Songzanlin Gompa north of town. This sprawling and, in historical terms, very key monastery was commissioned in the 17c by the 5th Dalai Lama, and was the central monastery in the Gelukpa order’s south-eastern expansion. In the evening eat dinner at a neighbourhood BBQ joint, then for those who want, off to the Natural Bridge hot springs for a soak under the stars.
Since the retreat of the Tibetans from the Lijiang area in the 19c, Zhongdian (Tib. Gyalthang) has pretty much marked the south-eastern border of Kham Tibet in Yunnan. It’s a curious mix of a recently prettified new town and an untouched old town, quite different from Lijiang to the south. Up until a few yeas ago, it had the rough reputation of a classic frontier town - but now things have calmed down, and its markets and the old town make for a fruitful afternoon stroll.
4WD / Hotel
(B)
Day 11: Tiger Leaping Gorge
Initially the trail here heads up (again!) to 4000m before dropping down back into Naxi country via the limestone terraces of Baishuitai and Haba Mountain (Yunnan’s 3rd highest at 5396), then heading into Tiger Leaping Gorge, which although by no means as some claim the deepest gorge in the world, still a sight worth beholding. Overnight in ‘gorge-side’ accommodation at the midpoint of the gorge, taking meals on the veranda with the accompanying roar of the Yangtze far below.
4WD / Guesthouse
(B)
Day 12: Lijiang
After a leisurely breakfast taken on the veranda, we start the short drive to Lijiang. Lunch at Shigu, ‘First Bend of the Yangtze’, accompanied by a visit to the old town and Long March monument. As the sun begins to set, arrive in Lijiang, where it’s time to wash off the dust, relax and reflect. For those who want, attend an evening’s performance of the famous (infamous?) Naxi orchestra.
4WD / Hotel
(B)
Day 13: Kunming
A little last minute shopping before an afternoon flight to Kunming, and a final meal together, which may just hold its own surprise!
Flight / Hotel.
(B) (D)
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
- Including all domestic airfares,accomodation, breakfasts,4WD and an experienced trip leader.
- In UK Pounds (Double Occupancy):
* £1575 (2 people);
* £1310 (3-5 people);
* £1165 (6-7 people).
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
China
Tibet
Cultural Journey
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