Program of ascension to Muztag-Ata Peak 7546 m.
This is first and foremost due to the area’s uniqueness and good accessibility, relatively low expedition costs and vast array of information on the peak available. Easternmost boundary of the Pamir Uplands – the Kashgar Mountains – makes up a giant icy barrier cutting Pamirs off greatest desert of the Central Asia – the Taklamakan Desert. It is here the Pamir Uplands protrude eastwards, and the gigantic eastern “foothold” of the “Roof-of-the-World”, as Pamir is nicknamed, is clearly outlined by chain of the Kongur mountain system on the north-east and the Muztag-Ata massif on the East. The Muztag-Ata Range and the Kongur Range incorporate Pamir’s three highest peaks, namely: the 7719 m-high Kongur-Tag (Kongur-1), the 7595 m-high Kongur-Tyube-Tag (Kongur -2) and the 7546 m-high Muztag-Ata.
Muztag-Ata (“father of ice-clad mountains” in Turkic language) is geographically located in the north-west China. The peak gently sloping westwards flatness out into a plain – the Subashi “glade” that is ran north to south by famous Karakoram Motorway (Kashgar – Tashkurgan – Gilgit) passing along just 10 kilometres off the Muztag-Ata glaciers. First-ever climb to Muztag-Ata took place in 1956 when joint Soviet-Chinese expedition led by Y.A.Beletskiy and K.K. Kuzmin attempted it on the southernmost of the mountain’s west ridges. 31 mountaineers succeeded to the top - 19 Soviets and 12 Chinese.
In the middle of the Muztag-Ata’s western slope there is a giant hole (fault) funnelling in ice falling down from surrounding mountains and feeding in the Kartamak Glacier flowing down along the fault. On the right-hand and left-hand side of the fault two “classic” routes take a climber up to the top: the North-slope route and the South-slope route accordingly. For the time being, most safe and popular is the Southern route. The route is not that technically difficult. However, crucial factors to the success or failure of your expedition might be unpredictable weather and high-altitude pressure. Not only good physical conditions and appropriate high-peak gear but also good and correctly done acclimatization are required from the climber to safely reach the goal. Annually, more than 600 mountaineers visit Muztag-Ata area. And some of them view the mountain as an object good for ski downhill, too.
So, you’ve made your choice and your goal is Muztag-Ata now. Then you may opt between three Central Asian cities to start your journey from: either Bishkek (in Kyrgyzstan), or Tashkent (Uzbekistan), or Osh (Kyrgyzstan). The nearest town to the Base Camp is Kashgar in China – the town accessible from the above-mentioned cities by road. It may take you two days to get to Kashgar by car across mountain passes – either Torugart Pass or Irkeshtam Pass.
“Kashgar” – for centuries this name was acting as a magnet for many a generation of adventurers and explorers from all over the world. From ancient times, the town was playing a role of a gateway to Tibet and Central Asia, to China and India and had seen thousands of caravans and expeditions. Some travellers would pass the town through to remember it for the rest of their lives while others, lured with its Oriental charm, would stay there forever. Well, nothing to worry, you personally are just among many of those who made up their mind to cross this land on their way to the Muztag-Ata Base Camp.
We offer three options of arrival to the Base Camp:
1. Via Osh – The Southern capital of Kyrgyzstan – and further transfer to the yurt camp «Sarytash» - the pass Irkeshtam – to Kashgar. We consider this option more convenient and less tiring.
2. Via Bishkek – The capital of Kyrgyzstan – and further transfer to Naryn - the pass Irkeshtam – to Kashgar.
3. Via Tashkent – The capital of Uzbekistan – and further transfer to Osh – to the yurt camp «Sarytash» - the pass Irkeshtam – to Kashgar. Please, take into account, that this option of the tour via Tashkent allows the participants of ascent to visit World-known historical monuments of Samarkand and Bukhara after expedition.
* Note: You should fill 2 copies of declaration at the custom upon arrival in the country. You should keep one of them till the end of your trip.
Tour Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive in Osh / Bishkek. Meeting at airport. - Transfer from Osh – to the yurt camp Sarytash. - Transfer from Bishkek to Naryn.
Day 2: Drive Sarytash – Irkeshtam (3536m). Then you carry on driving from Irkeshtam to Kashgar where you are having your lodge at hotel.
Drive Naryn – Torugart. Then you carry on driving from Torugart to Kashgar where you are having your lodge at hotel. Kashgar is a town most proximate to Base Camp.
Day 3: Drive Kashgar – Subashi (200 km, 4-5 hours).
Day 4: Trek Subashi – Base Camp (at 4350 m). Camels carry your load on from Subashi to BC. As soon as animals are loaded the caravan sets off and trekking starts along the trail that takes you across multiple hills to the Base Camp (approximately 4 hours). Base Camp (4350 m) is favourably fitted into a very scenic locality where you tread upon continuous multicoloured carpet of alpine herbs and flowers and are cheerfully saluted by marmots whistling in their distinctive way.
Day 5: Preparation for ascent.
Day 6: Acclimatisation walks in the Base Camp area.
Day 7: Uphill from BC (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m). Organizationally, the ascent to the summit requires usage of three interim high-altitude camps. Camp 1 is set at 5350 m above see level.
Day 8: Downhill from Camp 1 (5350 m) to BC (4350 m).
Day 9: Uphill from BC (4350 m) to Camp 1 (5350 m).
Day 10: Uphill from Camp 1 (5350 m) to Camp 2 (6200 m).From Camp 1 track gradually goes up on the snow-, partly ice-covered slope over and across multiple crevasses towards small levelling stretch of the glacier.
Day 11: Downhill from Camp 2 (6200 m) to BC (4350 m).
Day 12: Day of rest.
Day 13: Uphill from BC (4350 m) to C-1 (5350 m).
Day 14: Uphill from C-1 (5,350 m) to C-2 (6200 m).
Day 15: Uphill from C-2 (6200 m) to C- 3 (6800 m).
Day 16: Storm the summit from C-3 (6800 m) to the top of Muztag-Ata (7546 m) and get back to C-3 (6800 m).The path to the summit is quite straightforward. From altitude 6800 m till 7400 m the slope gradually levels becoming more and more flat.
Day 17: Downhill from C-3 (6800 m) to BC (4350 m).
Days 18 - 20: These are extra days in case of bad weather.
Day 21: Track from BC (4350 m) to Subashi. Drive from Subashi to Kashgar.
Day 22: Sightseeing programme in Kashgar.
Day 23: Drive Kashgar – Irkeshtam – Sarytash / Drive Kashgar - Torugart – Naryn.
Day 24: Drive Sarytash – Osh / Drive Naryn to Bishkek.
Day 25: Depart from Osh / Depart from Bishkek.
* Program of arriving through Tashkent:
Day 1: Arrive in Tashkent. Meeting at airport.
Day 2: Drive Osh – yurt camp Sarytash.
Day 3: Drive Sarytash – Irkeshtam (3536 m).
Day 4: Drive Kashgar – Subashi (200 km, 4-5 hours).
* The Ascent:
Day 22: Drive Kashgar – Irkeshtam – Sarytash.
Day 23: Drive Sarytash – Osh.
Day 24: Drive Osh - Tashkent.
Day 25: Depart from Tashkent.
* Note: The flexible system of discounts is specified for the groups!!!
Price Includes:
- Permits necessary for ascent;
- All essential documents: invitation letters, registration with local authorities (“OVIR” registration), ecology fees and duties;
- Transfers (by road): Bishkek – Naryn – Torugart – Kashgar – Subashi – and back;
- Transfers (by road): Osh – Sarytash – Irkeshtam – Kashgar – Subashi – and back;
- Meeting and seeing-off at airport;
- Accommodation at 2*-3* hotel (breakfast included) and yurt camps according to Programme;
- Full boarding while trekking from Subashi to Base Camp;
- Porters and camels on the way from Subashi to BC (4,350m) and back;
- Signal officer services at BC;
- Sightseeing and entrance fees for monuments and sights in Kashgar;
- Mineral water while in road transfer;
- Services available at BC (4,350m):
* Accommodation at tent shared between 2 persons;
* 3 full meals a day from European and Chinese cuisine;
* Shower, toilet and storage room;
* Consultancy service from experienced high-altitude guide;
* Medical services;
* Power supply (220 V; 50 Hz);
* Consultation on the ascent peculiarities.
Price Excludes:
- Insurance;
- Visa cost;
- Services of accompanying high-altitude guide and/or high-altitude porters during the ascent;
- Rent of high-altitude equipment.
After completion of your expedition to Muztag-Ata Peak you have a unique opportunity to extend you travel to include world-famous cities of the Orient – Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Osh. You can also opt for a few days of sunbathing on the sandy beech of the Issyk-Kul Lake. We would love to help you organise such extension tour tailored to your specific needs.
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Prices:
- Bishkek - Bishkek: 1850 Euro
- Tashkent - Tashkent: 1680 Euro
- Osh - Osh: 1800 Euro
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
China
Kyrgyzstan
Uzbekistan
Outdoor: Land Rambler
Hiking & Trekking
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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