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Program of ascension to Khan-Tengry Peak 7010 m.
In the world, there are very few mountains comparable by their beauty with this snow-clad giant. Words are flat and helpless when you talk of the Khan Tengri’s beauty. You must see it with your own eyes. The sunset at the Peak is stunning: surrounding mountains are drowning in the dusk while the Peak, dominating over all other mountains around, turns flaming red in the rays of the sitting sun and clouds cast twirling shadows streaming down its slopes. "Khan-Tengry" – "The Master of the Sky" in Mongol language, from time immemorial is known to native local inhabitants, Kyrgyz, as "Kan-Too" – "Blood Mountain" ("kan" means "blood", "too" - "mountain").
First scientific account on the Peak dates to the middle of the 19th century when Khan-Tengri had been seen and described by notorious Russian explorer of the Tian Shan P.P. Semenov-Tian-Sanskiy, in 1856-57. Here is an excerpt from his personal diary: ”When we got up to the top of the mountain pass it was about one o’clock AM. We were surprised and dazzled with the sight we’ve got. Straight to the south of us lain most magnificent of all mountain ranges I’ve ever seen. The entire range top to bottom consisted of snowy giants that, to the left and right hand side of me, I could number of not less than thirty in total. The whole range with intervals between mountain tops was covered by interminable shroud of eternal snow. Amidst the giants, an outstanding one was strikingly contrasting with the rest by its snow-white pointed pyramid, which, from our pass’s heights, other peaks seemed to be half the height of...” And that was Peak Khan-Tengry.
As of today, more than 10 mountaineering routes have been laid to the top of Peak Khan-Tengry. All the routes can be subdivided into two main groups: northern routes commencing from the North Inilchek Glacier and southern routes – starting from the South Inilchek Glacier. Most popular with mountaineers is so called “Marble Rib” route, the route No1 beginning from the Semenovskiy Glacier on the south. This route is under constant monitoring by rescue services.
Besides well-known peaks like Peak Khan-Tengry and Pobeda Peak, the area has over 30 peaks around 6000m-high. Some of them still wait for their first-ever climber.
Your overland journey to the foot of both Khan-Tengry Peak (7010 m) and Pobeda Peak (7439 m) may commence from nearby major Central Asian cities, having international air communication – either Almaty (former capital of Kazakhstan) or Bishkek (capital of Kyrgyzstan). Thence you take a car-ride to the summer camp Karkara, whence you have a short helicopter hop to base camps located either on the North Inilchek Glacier or the South Inilchek Glacier. Khan-Tengry is in the short list of the world’s top-class summits that every self-respecting mountaineer dreams of to ever climb. But give up your hopes to succeed to the top if your personal track record includes only a few simple routes and your high-altitude physical and technical preparedness is not appropriate. The mountain is extremely serious both physically and technically. Classical West Rib route that is described here below is not a simple one. Before setting off, the one adventuring on the climb must consciously weigh up one’s potential and ability of doing that. Because when the dice is cast you are to meet with the Great Mountain face to face.
Tour Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive in Bishkek. You are met at airport, transferred to hotel and accommodated there.
Day 2: Drive to Karkara (460km). Accommodation in Base Camp "Karkara".
Day 3: Take helicopter hop to Base Camp (BC) “South Inilchek” (4,000m above see level).
Day 4: Get yourself introduced to the area. Prepare yourself for the ascent.
Day 5: Acclimatization foray to Peak Khan-Tengry.
Day 6: Base Camp (4000 m) to Camp 1 (4200 m). The route begins from the BC located at the left-hand side moraine of the South Inilchek Glacier at the point of the glacier’s meeting with the Zvezdochka Glacier, approximately at 4000 m above see level.
Day 7: Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 2 (5300 m). You uphill along the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping at the ice-fall. Upper reaches of the glacier are objectively dangerous due to possible icefalls rushing down from the Peak Chapaev and Peak Khan-Tengry.
Day 8: Camp 2 (5300 m) to Camp 3 (5900 m). From Camp 2 uphill on rather gentle slope to the upper reaches of the Semenovskiy Glacier keeping towards the saddle lying between Peak Khan-Tengri and the arm of the Peak Chapaev.
Day 9: Downhill to BC (4000 m) along the path of uphill.
Day 10: Rest day.
Day 11: Rest day. Use this opportunity for wandering around, exploring the picturesque environs and taking piles of unforgettable photos...
Day 12: Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 13: Camp 1 (4200 m) to Camp 3 (5900 m).
Day 14: Camp 3 (5900 m) to Camp 4 (6400 m) From Camp 3 the route goes on through the saddle and along the western ridge of Peak Khan-Tengry.
Day 15: Uphill to the top of the Peak Khan-Tengry (7010 m). Downhill to Camp 3 (5900 m).
Day 16: Downhill to Base Camp (4,000m) on the way of ascent.
Day 17: Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 18: Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 19: Helicopter hop to Karkara and further on by road to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel, back to the amenities of long forgotten civilisation, a night’s stroll in town, free time for shopping souvenirs.
Day 20: Day at leisure.
Day 21: Depart from Bishkek.
* Note: The flexible system of discounts is specified for the groups!!!
Price Includes:
- Arranging necessary documents: registration in immigration policy and border permit;
- Meeting / transfer from / to airport of Bishkek and Almaty;
- All transfers according to the program;
- Helicopter flights Karkara – BC – Karkara with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 3 EUR / kg);
- Accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty in the hotels 2* with breakfast;
- Accommodation in the Camp «Karkara» and at the Issyk-Kul lake with meals – full board;
- Meals en route;
- Services in Base Camp:
* Accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring and mattresses);
* Full boarding (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering);
* Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC;
* Sauna (steam room) at BC;
* Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC;
* Electric supply 220 V; 50 HZ;
* High-altitude guide consultancy services;
* Registration with rescue team;
* Rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for the group with more than 3 persons);
* Usage of remote wireless;
* Ecological tax for staying on the territory of the camp.
Price Excludes:
- The cost of visas;
- Services by high-altitude guides and porters during ascending;
- Rent of mountaineering gear and tents for ascending;
- Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners.
Additional services:
- Rent of tents for high camps – 4 Euro per day;
- Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 4,5 euro per one cartridge;
- International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min.
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
Kyrgyzstan
Outdoor: Land Rambler
Hiking & Trekking
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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