Lenin Peak is the highest summit of Zailiysky Range. Its height is 7134 meters above sea level. There are 3 seven thousand meters peaks on the territory of Kyrgyzstan, and Lenin Peak is the most accessible and popular amongst the mountain climbers of the world. As a rule, Lenin Peak is a starting summit for “Snow Leopard” program. Lenin Peak is a success with experienced climbers and down hill skiers. The mount itinerary isn’t of particular technical difficulty. And, the descent from the seven thousand meters peak makes an indelible impression even upon the supporter of the most extreme sports. Weather conditions are propitious enough in the region of Lenin Peak. However, you shouldn’t forget that Lenin Peak is seven thousand meters summit that is why a principal difficulty of the expedition to theLenin Peak is an altitude. Low temperatures, the periods of foul weather, as well as avalanches must be taken into account. The “Achik Tash” Base Camp, which is the starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak, is situated on a verdant glade at an altitude of 3000 meters a. s. l. The 1st camp is located on a moraine at an altitude of 4400 meters above sea level. The both camps offer a comfortable accommodation and give a perfect possibility to have a good rest during the expedition.
In 1928, 3 German alpinists (K. Win, E. Allvein, E. Schneider) were the first who climber to Kaufmann Peak (it was the first name of the summit that was given by the Russian explorer A. P. Fedchenko). The same year Kaufmann Peak was given a new name – Lenin Peak. In the times of Soviet Union, the most part of the climbers gained their first experience trying to conquer Lenin Peak. At the present time, the alpinists, from all over the world, try to climb the Peak of Lenin.
Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and Lenin Peak alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200 m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100 m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).
From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6200 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelny Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.
From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.
The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustag-Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.
Basic program: 21 days:
Day 1: arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
Day 2: flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
Days 3-18: acclimatization and ascending program.
Day 19: transfer to Osh.
Day 20: flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
Day 21: flight home.
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