There are no easy ways up the Matterhorn, as the struggle for its first ascent clearly showed and suitable training as well as altitude acclimatization for four days is required before safely ascending and descending its airy ridges. Additionally you need to be prepared for unpredictable and fast-changing weather. We offer two route choices; the Hornli Ridge, the most popular route or the classic Zmutt ridge. The favored route is via the Hornli Ridge. This is more of a long scramble rather than a rock climb graded Diff/Vdiff (5.3-5.4) but with plenty of exposed, airy ridges. The summit day from the Hornli hut, reached from Zermatt the previous afternoon, will be 8-10 hours. With good conditions it is achievable by anyone with basic rock climbing experience, excellent physical fitness and plenty of ambition and commitment. The Matterhorn is a demanding climb that requires good levels of fitness & stamina. The summit day involves 8-10 hours technical climbing at high altitude and so you need to have prepared well in advance with lots of aerobic activity. For a successful attempt at the Matterhorn this means a minimum of 2-3 months training with 3-4 30-45 minute sessions per week - whether running, cycling or hillwalking. Contact us for a comprehensive training guide. Climb program: The aim of this program is to enjoy a week of fantastic alpine mountaineering around Zermatt and Saas Fee and to make a successful and safe ascent (and descent!) of the Matterhorn. Our standard program is 6 days with 4 days of acclimatization and preparation - at a guide ratio of 1:2, and 2 days for the Matterhorn ascent and descent which is guided on a 1:1 ration only. The ascent via the Hornli Ridge usually takes as long to come down as go up (4-5 hrs). The route starts from the Hornli hut (which is reached easily from Zermatt the previous day) at 4am, so hopefully you get to see a lovely dawn.
Your Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive in Saas Grund and check into our valley base hotel. In the evening you will meet the guides to discuss the week's plan and to check equipment.
Day 2: The fist day out in the mountains concentrates on technical preparation. This means you will spend the day rock climbing locally - an ideal warm up for the bigger mountains.
Day 3: Warm up over we head into the higher hills for mountaineering skills training and altitude acclimatisation . We walk up to the Almageller hut about a 3.5hr walk and in the afternoon we climb on the Dri Hornli, a superb rock peak. Overnight is in the hut, one of our favourites!
Day 4: An alpine start about 4am! And a full day traversing the Weismeiss, this is a fabulous alpine day scrambling up an airy rocky ridge followed by a glacial descent. As it takes you over 4000m too it is ideal preparation for the Matterhorn.
Day 5: A lighter day to re charge the batteries with rock climbing in the afternoon.
Day 6: Now its time to head round to Tasch by road and on up to Zermatt by rail. A leiurely lunch in Zermatt soaking up the delights of this quintessential Swiss village before heading up to the Hornli hut (2-3 hour walk) to stay overnight.
Day 7: The big day! From another 4.00am start you make your attempt on the summit. All being well this takes 3.5-5hrs. Surprisingly the descent can often take longer, but there is usually a comfortable amount of time to walk back to the lift station at Schwarzee and descend to Zermatt. We return to our hotel base in Saas Grund to celebrate a successful trip.
Day 8: Depart after breakfast.
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Included:
- All guiding fees & expenses, B&B hotel accommodation (twin room);
- Half-board accommodation in mountain huts.
Not Included:
- Evening meals when staying in Saas Grund, lunches, personal insurance;
- Equipment hire, travel to and from Saas Grund, local transfers and uplift costs.
- Single-room occupancy in valley hotels may incur an additional cost.
Also see tour packages in:
Europe
Switzerland
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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