Your Itinerary (standard)
Day 1: Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 2: Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
Day 3: Preparation day.
Day 4: Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (to the camp at 5300m).
Day 5: Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak. (5690 m). Descend to BC.
Day 6: Rest day.
Day 7: Preparation day.
Day 8: Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m). Hike up the right side of the Walter Glacier's moraine. Across the glacier and further up the ice-snow "pillow" under the sheer slope of Big Pamir Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Past "pillow" further up by rocky stretch to the crest where C1 is set (about 6-7 hours). Use of 2-3 ropes.
Day 9: Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs).This part of the route is technically not difficult: wide snow-covered spur partly 35 to 40 degrees steep. The camp is set in a trough. From 5100m till 5300m use 2-3 ropes, from 5300m till 5800m the usage of the ropes is also necessary.
Day 10: Descend to Base Camp (BC).
Day 12: Preparation day.
Day 13: Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m).
Day 14: Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 15: Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp "Vostok". Have early start and ascend to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped party. Traverse up to the left to the top and then descend to Big Pamir Plateau (4-5hrs). From 5800m till 6000m use 4 ropes, from 6100m till 6200m use 2 ropes. While descending to Big Pamir Plateau use 1-2 ropes to cross over a crevasse.
Day 16: Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m). Early start and climb on the northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m) descend to the camp at 6900m.
Day 17: Ascend to the summit 7495 m and descend to Camp 4 or Camp 2.
Early start and climb up the steep snow slope keeping the steep rocks on the right. Carry on straight to the summit and then back to Camp 4 (6900 m), (8-9 hrs).
Day 18: Descend to Camp 1 or Camp 2.
Day 19: Descend to Base Camp.
Days 20-24: Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 25: Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 26: Departure from Dushanbe.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Tajikistan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Glacier Tours
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