The first successful ascent to the peak was done in 22 August 1953. The group consisted of 8 alpinists from Leningrad under the leadership of A.Ugarov reached the top from the North from Korjenevskaya glacier climbing along the Northern range. Now there are about 10 different complexity known routes to the top. The simplest, popular and safe way goes along the South ridge from the Korjenevskiy glacier.
Tour Itinerary (standard)
Day 1: Arrive in Dushanbe, have accommodation in hotel.
Day 2: Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
Day 3: Preparation day.
Day 4: Acclimatization climb Vorobiova Peak, up to the camp at 5300 m.
Day 5: Climb the summit of Vorobiova Peak. (5690 m). Descend to Base Camp.
Day 6: Rest day.
Day 7: Preparation day.
Day 8: Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m). Cross over Moskvina Glacier and ascent along the good trail to advanced BC (5100 m) (6-8 hrs) from where you carry on to Camp 1 (5300 m). We usually use 2 ropes for climbing between 4800m and 5100m. Camp (5100 m.) - Camp (5300 m.) The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300m at moraine. From the Camp 5300m, if visibility is good, one can see the entire path up to the summit. 5100m to 5300m two more 2 ropes.
Day 9: Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m).
Day 10: Climb to (6000m - 6100m). Descend for a night stay to Camp 2. From 5800m to 6100m we use 4 ropes.
Day 11: Descend to BC.
Days 12, 13: Rest day.
Day 14: Preparation day.
Day 15: Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m).
Day 16: Climb to Camp 3 (6300 m).
Day 17: Ascend to the summit 7105 m and descend to Camp 3 or Camp 2.
The route follows on the snow crest towards the top. Enjoy astounding view of thousand summits with most magnificent and impressive one - Communism Peak.
Day 18: Descend to Base Camp.
Days 19, 20: Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 21: Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 22: Departure from Dushanbe.
Day 25: Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 26: Departure from Dushanbe.
Also see tour packages in:
Asia Tajikistan Outdoor: Mountain Ranger Mountain/Rock Climbing Glacier Tours
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